I had the opportunity to attend Watches and Wonders in Geneva last week. The most important trade show for watches and jewellery in the world, it is estimated (according to the Watches and Wonders website) that 55,000 visitors, 1600 journalists, and 6000 retailers from across the world travelled to Geneva to meet with 60 participating brands.
I was fortunate to meet with more than 25 watch brands, both at Watches and Wonders, at the nearby Time To Watches exhibition, and in Geneva city. It is hard to pick a few favourites when so many brands have done a spectacular job with new launches. The six watches below piqued my interest for a variety of reasons. I had the opportunity to spend quality time with them, and they are my top picks from Geneva.
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40 Green-Dial
Image: A superb watch featuring an integrated bracelet.
IWC Schaffhausen unveiled a green-dial version Ingenieur Automatic 40 for Watches and Wonders. It features a “Grid” patterned green dial, 40 mm stainless steel case and an integrated bracelet. Its design is based on Gérald Genta’s original Ingenieur SL of the 1970’s.
“It takes inspiration from the watch worn by the main character Sonny Hayes in Apple Original Film’s upcoming “F1® THE MOVIE”. Portrayed by actor Brad Pitt, the veteran racing driver sports a customised version of the Ingenieur SL Reference 1832, with a dial in his signature green colour.”
The combination of its attractive Genta inspired case design, beautiful green dial (including green date window), dependable automatic movement – automatic calibre 32111 that drives the hours, minutes, seconds, date, and stop seconds, an integrated bracelet, and perfect proportions (40 mm), speak to me a lot. It is a versatile GADA (go anywhere do anything) watch. A winner from IWC Schaffhausen.
Price: United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED): 48,000. Reference: IW328908. Limited-edition of 1000 pieces.
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403
Image: Green dial version on stainless steel bracelet.
Oris unveiled the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403, the flagship edition of the Big Crown Pointer Date models launched by the brand for Watches and Wonders. Oris is renowned for creating exceptional watches accessible to a broad audience. In addition, sustainability is a key part of who they are.
Image: Terracota dial version on Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap.
The Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 features a 40 mm stainless steel case, a beautiful vintage inspired dial featuring Arabic numerals, a railroad minutes track, pointer date, and calibre 403, an in-house automatic movement that drives the hours, minutes, small seconds, pointer date, and stop seconds function. In addition, the watch comes with a 10-year warranty.
It is available with a green or terracotta colour dial (the latter the same shade of terracotta used in Oris’s factory) – both dials blending vintage vibes with just enough colour and personality. There is a choice of either a stainless steel bracelet or a Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap.
The Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 ticks several boxes for me. Oris proves once again that watches can be exceptional, desirable, and (relatively) affordable at the same time. I would be happy to own the terracotta dial version.
Price: Leather strap version: Swiss Franc (CHF): 3,600. Metal bracelet version: Swiss Franc (CHF): 3,800. References: 01 403 7799 4067-07 6 20 09FC, 01 403 7799 4067-07 8 20 06, 01 403 7799 4068-07 6 20 11FC, and 01 403 7799 4068-07 8 20 06.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantième Perpétuel in Rose Gold
Image: Breathtakingly gorgeous and featuring an abundance of details.
Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled the Toric Quantième Perpétuel in two versions: Morning Blue dial made from 18K white gold housed in a platinum 950 case, and a Golden Hour dial made from 18K rose gold housed in a 18K rose gold case. While both are beautiful, my favourite is the Golden Hour dial version.
Perpetual calendars typically display calendar functions on three subdials. The Toric Quantième Perpétuel does this with two. The subdial between 8 and 9 o’clock displays the date and day of the week, and the subdial between 3 and 4 o’clock displays the months and leap year. Using two subdials creates an abundance of empty space on the upper and lower dial. However, the combination of its hand-grained finished dial, brand’s logo at 12 o’clock, 18K rose gold hand-applied hour-markers on the slightly recessed outer dial, coupled with the knurled bezel and the overall rose gold tones (Golden Hour colour) – just works brilliantly. Perfect balance and symmetry. A legible perpetual calendar, one where the absence of a moon phase display does not really matter. It is a beautiful watch, one that I just could not get enough off.
Image: The movement is in 18K rose gold too.
The Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rose Gold Golden Hour features a case size of 40.60 mm and is powered by calibre PF733, a beautifully finished hand-wound movement in 18K rose gold that drives the hours, minutes, and perpetual calendar functions.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 85,000. Reference: PFH952-2010001-300181. Limited edition of 50 pieces.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
Image: A direct descendent of the Reference 96, one of the most important watches of all time.
Patek Philippe has unveiled impressive watches (both aesthetically and technically) during Watches and Wonders. The one that won me over is the Calatrava 6196P, a “simple” hours-minutes-small seconds watch featuring a rose-gilt opaline (just call is salmon) dial housed in a 38 mm platinum case. The discreet diamond on the case at 6 o’clock denotes it is made from platinum (a Patek Philippe feature).
The 6196P is the successor to the Calatrava 5196, a similar looking watch with reduced case dimensions and another hand-wound movement, discontinued a few years ago. The 5196 was the spiritual successor to the Reference 96 (circa 1930’s – 1940’s), among the most important watches of all time. When the 5196 was discontinued, I knew it was only a matter of time before Patek Philippe unveiled a successor.
The new 6196P is the purest expression of a three-hand watch by Patek Philippe, with a heritage that is second to none. What surprised me the most is that the brand has been so quiet about the 6196P. One would expect huge fan fare for such an important watch, but they are Patek Philippe after all and do things differently. The 6196P belongs to the IYKYK (if you know you know) category.
Image: The watch is vintage inspired, but powered by an ultra modern movement.
It is powered by Calibre 30-255 PS, a hand-wound movement that drives the hours, minutes, seconds, and stop seconds function – the same movement that powers the Calatrava 6119. Patek Philippe decided to unveil the 6196P in a platinum case. I predict it is only a matter of time before a rose gold, white gold, and yellow gold (fingers crossed for this) version are unveiled. The rose gold or yellow gold version would be the one I would want to save up for and call my own. I expect these future versions to be bestsellers for the brand.
Price: On Request. Reference: 6196P.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
Image: Miami GP version.
TAG Heuer is having a phenomenal moment under the horological (and motorsports) sun. Part of LVMH, they have been appointed the Official Timekeeper for Formula 1, and have just unveiled their new Designed to Win campaign. Their watches are super desirable and mostly accessible. Their booth at Watches and Wonders featured two Formula 1 cars, including a championship winning car driven by the late Ayrton Senna.
TAG Heuer has unveiled the Formula 1 Solargraph, a reinterpretation of their 1980’s icon. They will be available in nine versions, either with a metal bracelet or rubber strap, each model corresponding to a Grand Prix race on the Formula 1 calendar. Each version features a 38 mm case size, sandblasted steel and DLC treatment, and a Solargraph movement (you guessed it, powered by the sun) that drives the hours, minutes, seconds, and date.
Image: Mexico GP version.
The original TAG Heuer F1 was my first ever watch in 1989 (I still have it), and seeing these new ones rekindled a childhood memory. They are fun watches that will appeal to kids, teenagers, and adults alike. And they are crafted by a brand that has a motorsports heritage that is second to none. My favourite is the Miami GP version (the top pic) – white opaline dial, red flange, black bezel, and steel bracelet.
Price: Rubber strap versions: Swiss Franc (CHF): 1,750. Steel bracelet versions: Swiss Franc (CHF): 1,850. Nine references, each corresponding to a Grand Prix race on the Formula 1 calendar.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Image: My favourite among the three Traditionnelle openface models. (Same as header image.)
Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary this year. They are the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in the world. They have unveiled one of the most impressive collections for Watches and Wonders. They kicked off their 270th anniversary collection by launching the Historiques 222 in steel, and inaugurated ‘The Quest: 270 years of seeking excellence’ exhibition in Abu Dhabi. Their novelties include models from their Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections. As if this were not enough, they surprised the horological world by unveiling the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever made (our coverage coming soon).
While I really like the new 270th anniversary dial pattern on all their novelties, inspired by the brand’s Maltese Cross emblem, and the ‘côte unique’ finish on the movements (only to be used for the anniversary pieces), the model that stood out the most for me was the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface.
Left: Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Middle: Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. Right: Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Openface (this debuts a new movement).
I like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface the most. As I have said before, tourbillons are a dime a dozen, and it is hard pressed to find a brand (save for a few) that does not have one in their catalogue. Vacheron Constantin knows how to craft a tourbillon to another level and stand out from the rest of the crowd. The combination of a classical tourbillon paired with a retrograde date on an openface dial offers a harmonious aesthetic and symmetry, more so than the other two openface models (at least to my eyes). The openface dial and monochromatic look gives the watch an “edginess” that I just love. It shows that Vacheron Constantin, a Holy Trinity brand, can also be a bit daring with aesthetics.
Image: The peripheral rotor allows an unobstructed view of the movement.
The watch is housed in a 41 mm 950 platinum case, and powered by calibre 2162 R31/270, an automatic movement with a peripheral rotor that drives the hours, minutes, small seconds (on tourbillon), retrograde date, and tourbillon.
Price: On Request. Reference: 6010T/000P-H055.
There are other favourites too…
By selecting these six watches, I am not being fair to so many others – both from these brands themselves as well as other. I loved other watches from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, and those from A.Lange & Söhne, Breva (exhibited at Time To Watches), Bvlgari, Cartier, Chopard, De Bethune (exhibited at the Ritz Carlton), Jaeger-LeCoultre, Nomos, Piaget, Rolex, and Zenith to name a few. Stay tuned for The Cornea Impression’s coverage as we bring you more from the world of watches.
Lovely choices Kunaal! The watches look absolutely brilliant.
Thank you so much Shivaum.