Kunaal’s top watch selection from an amazing Watches and Wonders

How time flies. It seems like it was yesterday that I attended my first Watches and Wonders last year. Just like that, a year has gone by, and amidst so much geopolitical uncertainty, I boarded a flight from New Delhi to Europe. My first stop was Warsaw, my home for five years in the past and where I spent four days churning out horology coverage, before flying to Geneva. Armed with a new wardrobe, comfortable shoes, pocket square tutorials on YouTube, and a new strap for my Lange 1 (dark green Nile crocodile leather), I was brimming with excitement as I landed in rainy Geneva.

I met with more than thirty watch brands, mostly at the Palexpo convention centre where Watches and Wonders is held and a few in the city. I attended the Masters of Horology Fifth Edition, an exhibition where I met renowned independent watchmakers such as Bernhard Lederer, Hajime Asaoka, Kari Voutilainen, Marco Lang, and Vianney Halter among others and saw their creations. This was followed by an exclusive Phillips Watches cocktail where Aaron Becsei – an independent watchmaker from Hungary unveiled the PAMEUS, his latest creation designed in collaboration with renowned tattoo artist Mo Coppoletta. Finding the Phillips address at 7 Rue de la Confédération was a challenge; I asked several people and store employees on the same street and none of them knew. One finally did; it was directly opposite. This experience reminded me of the scene in the Harry Potter series when a young Harry Potter and his friends need to find the mysterious Platform 9 ¾ at King’s Cross Station in London to board their train to Hogwarts!

As always, it is not easy to pick a few favourites from so many desirable watches launched during the watch week. After much thought, including getting over jet lag, I was able to decide. The following are my top picks from Geneva. 

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

You must be wondering why I choose the Saxonia Annual Calendar and not the uber-impressive Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” as one of my top picks. While the “Lumen” is the new flagship of the Lange 1 range and one of the most complex Lange watches, the “simpler” Saxonia Annual Calendar gets my vote.

It is both a new model and not a new model. It succeeds the original Saxonia Annual Calendar of 2010 – 2018, a reference that featured a 38.5 mm case size and powered by the brand’s (now retired) SAX-O-MAT movement. While they may look similar, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is a completely new watch. It features a more wearable case dimension of 36 mm (perfect on my wrist) and is powered by Calibre L207.1, a new automatic movement.

The Saxonia Annual Calendar is an elegant dress watch with a useful complication and an abundance of dial and movement details that its fortunate owner will fall in love with over time. It is the type of watch that does not shout. It whispers. Being a Lange, it is expensive (which watch at this level today isn’t), yet obtainable. It is an excellent addition to the brand’s catalogue and a future classic. One that I cannot stop dreaming about.

Also Read: A. Lange & Söhne unveils the elegant new Saxonia Annual Calendar

I interviewed Mr. Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of the brand where he discussed the strategy behind both the new Lumen and Saxonia. Click here to read the excerpts from the interview.

Cartier Roadster

Cartier knows how to make you want to fall in love again. After all, the brand does excel in luxury and romantic storytelling. One glance at their catalogue and advertisements featuring the iconic Trinity ring is all that it takes for romance to blossom. Though I will admit that during the past few years, the obsession with “in-house” movements and rotating displays that can measure the speed of our galaxy made me neglect Cartier’s watchmaking. My experience with them during the fair changed all this.

I handled several of their novelties. They included the Cartier Privé: 10^th Edition (Crash Skeleton, Tank Normale and Tortue Monopusher Chronograph), Santos-Dumont, Santos De Cartier Chronograph and Roadster. I loved them all. It was a reminder that watchmaking is as much about beauty, elegance and how it feels on one’s wrist, and not always about complex movements (not that Cartier does not have horological muscle, it does).

So why did I pick the Roadster? With more balanced proportions than the original of 2002 – 2012, its automotive-inspired tonneau-shaped case is sensational; it offers elegance and versatility yet remains a tad quirky. It is perfect for the office, with a suit at dinner (I was wearing a charcoal grey suit the day of my Cartier appointment and the combination of both was sublime) and jeans. Broadly appealing, its versatility is further enhanced with the interchangeability of bracelet and strap. The Roadster is testament to the fact that no one does shapes like Cartier. Given that it is offered in two sizes, Large and Medium, encompassing seven references in steel, yellow gold and two-tone, there is a Roadster for most preferences and budgets. It is perfect for one’s horological and sartorial wardrobe.

Also Read: Cartier unveils the gorgeous new Roadster

Patek Philippe Nautilus Desk Clock Reference 958G-001

How does this blue blooded of Genevan watch manufactures unveil so many new models in one year? Patek Philippe’s novelties included updates to existing references, a few completely new grand complications (I think four), their annual Rare Handicrafts series AND the 50^th anniversary of the Gerald Genta designed Nautilus. As I went around the brand’s press session; a large round table where you must move to the next senior watchmaker or brand representative as they show you each novelty, I literally had to pinch myself to check that I was not dreaming. One watchmaker demonstrated the automaton sequence of the Crow and the Fox Ref: 5249R-001, another demonstrated the Calatrava with a 24-Hour Alarm Ref: 5322G-001 and another explained the new Celestial Ref: 6105G-001. There were others too, such as the Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref: 5840P-001. No words. Just grateful.

The model that caught my attention was the Nautilus Desk Clock Ref: 958G-001. It is powered by Caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, a manually wound movement that drives the hours, minutes, small seconds, instantaneous date and day (former by hand, latter via an aperture) and an 8-day power reserve indicator. Imagine, the Nautilus – one of the most sought-after watches in the world for whom allocations is a nightmare for both the brand and its authorised dealers worldwide – now presented as a desk clock! It is super classy, super cool and a testament to the brand’s audacity and willingness to experiment. It is a limited edition of 100 pieces. 

TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph

Collectors love icons. So do watch brands, but not everyone has them. A. Lange & Söhne has the Lange 1, Cartier has the Tank, Omega has the Speedmaster, Patek Philippe has the Calatrava, and Rolex has the Submariner among others. TAG Heuer has the Monaco.

A motorsport-inspired square shaped chronograph originally launched in 1969 as the reference 1133 and made famous by Steve McQueen’s character Michael Delaney in the 1971 cult classic Le Mans, the Monaco has been present in the brand’s catalogue past several years. Yet, in its newest avatar, it is as close to the 1969 original as possible, including the destro crown (left side of the case).

I was able to handle all three dial versions. Beautifully crafted with a great feel on the wrist, the Monaco Chronograph proves that horological icons can be both remarkably affordable and obtainable. You can walk into your nearest TAG Heuer boutique or authorised dealer and walk out with this motorsport and cinematic icon on your wrist. It seldom gets better than this.

Also Read: TAG Heuer unveils the tempting new Monaco Chronograph

Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak

Before I write about the [Super] Freak, I want to write about the Ulysse Nardin booth at the Palexpo. The entrance of the booth was graced with a giant lifelike face of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, a watchmaking genius and part brainchild behind the original Freak of 2001. And the Robot outside the booth; entertaining, dancing and even flirting with women, was among the highlights of the show.

Another key brainchild behind the original Freak was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a watchmaker at Ulysse Nardin, now Movements Director at TAG Heuer. It was her original award- winning creation (1997) that gave genesis to the Freak; one where “not only did the hands rotate, but the entire movement turned. And there was no crown. Time and winding were set via the bezel.” It was this prototype that Dr. Oechslin worked on with a team of experts before the Freak was born in 2001. It was the first watch to incorporate silicon components, now second nature among many in the industry.

The [Super] Freak celebrates 180 years of the brand and 25 years of the original. A highly technical watch, it is the most complicated time-only watch ever made, featuring the world’s first automatic double tourbillon and a new gimbal system to display the seconds. I predict that it will redefine haute horology for the next 25 years just as the original did 25 years ago. It is a limited edition of 50 watches.

Also Read: Ulysse Nardin unveils the thrilling new [Super] Freak

Vacheron Constantin Special Mention

Those who know me well know I love Vacheron Constantin. Yet, none of their novelties made my heart flutter. Though the new Calibre 2550, an all-new automatic movement, did excite me. Click here to read my thoughts on both the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra -Thin 2500V and why Calibre 2550 is important.

I had an experience at the VC booth that is among the highlights of my year. The La Quête Du Temps Mecanique D’Art clock unveiled last year to celebrate the brand’s 270^th anniversary was on display as part of the La Quête Du Temps exhibition. The clock comprises of a Dome with the automaton or “Astronomer,” the Astronomical clock (front and back dial), and the Base. The brand collaborated with François Junod, a world-renowned automaton expert or automatier, L’Épée 1839 for the clock mechanism and casing, Geneva Observatory for the clock’s “celestial narrative,” Woodkid, a musician and artistic director for the melodies, and various other master artisans for their “artistic decoration” and other skills to bring it to life.

Standing next to it, I watched (and filmed) in awe as the watchmaker cranked it up for few of us to see the brief minute-and-a-half performance of the Astronomer’s choreography with accompanying melodies. I knew I was witnessing a once-in-a-lifetime horological concoction that will in decades to come join some of the most impressive works of art in history such as The Sistine Chapel Ceiling, Pietà, and David by Michelangelo (1475 – 1564)! I became a bit emotional; I made a promise to myself that one day I will bring my son Ayaan (who is almost six now) to Geneva to witness the Astronomer’s sequence. I think the brand will eventually house the La Quête Du Temps Mecanique D’Art at the manufacture in Geneva.

Furthermore, in a glass booth I noticed two masterpieces displayed next to each other. On the right side was the Reference 57260, a largish pocket-watch unveiled in 2015. Featuring 57 complications, including the Hebraic perpetual calendar, it was the most complicated timepiece in history (a record it held until 2024). It gave birth to the brand’s bespoke programme, better known as ‘Les Cabinotiers.’ On the left side was The Berkeley Grand Complication, another largish pocket-watch unveiled in 2024. Featuring 63 complications, including the Chinese lunisolar perpetual calendar with its “complex and irregular cycle,” it overtook the Reference 57260 as the most complicated timepiece in history!

Both are private commissions by Mr. William Berkley, founder and chairman of W.R. Berkley Corporation in the United States. To experience both up close was surreal. I could stand there for hours. When I last saw the Reference 57260 during Watches and Wonders Hong Kong in 2015, it was heavily guarded and I barely got a glance at it. Timepieces like this spend much of their lives hidden in the safes and vaults of private collections and “exist” only in coffee table books and auction catalogues. To share it like this reflects both the largesse of the collector and the brand. Thank you, Mr. Berkeley. Thank you, Vacheron Constantin.

Concluding Thoughts

If there is one word I can use to describe Watches and Wonders 2026, it is Evolution. Not Revolution. Most brands kept it simple by evolving their existing collections. Which is ok. Horological revolutions take time. Maybe next year we will see a whole lot of audacity. Given the geopolitical state of the world today, I want to say Bravo to the watch industry for keeping the lights on. As always, the best part of the week was the people. Meeting friends from all over the world and making new ones is what makes this passion so special.

My top picks are based on my personal preferences. I loved other watches too. These include models from Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, NOMOS Glashütte, Oris, Parmigiani Fleurier, Rolex, Tudor, and Zenith, among others.

Stay tuned on The Cornea Impression social media channels and website as we continue to bring you content from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026.