Bianchet, a young Swiss watch brand, was founded in 2017 by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa Bianchet. Rodolfo is Italian and was a fintech entrepreneur prior to co-founding his namesake watch brand. Emmanuelle is French and has a background in journalism, music, and painting.
Bianchet makes tourbillon watches housed in tonneau cases. They have 4 watch families. The B1.618 UltraFino, B1.618 Sport GMT, B1.618 Grande Date, and Maserati MSG Racing. Except for 2 models, all their watches feature dials highlighting their open-worked movements.
Left: B1.618 UltraFino Carbon Skeleton White. Right: B1.618 Sport GMT Carbon Sky Blue.
Left: B1.618 Grande Date Carbon Red. Right: B1.618 Grande Date Maserati Hybrid.
B1.618 is a reference to the Golden Ratio or Divine Proportion, an ancient mathematical principle “found in some of the most harmonious and everlasting creations in art, architecture, or music.” Bianchet’s cases and movements are designed around this principle. Notable watches inspired by the Golden Ratio include A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse.
Image: The Golden Ratio’s formulas as applied to Bianchet’s cases and movements.
We take a close look at the UT01, the brand’s new ultra-thin automatic tourbillon movement that is designed to resist shocks exceeding 5000 Gs. The UT01 powers the B1.618 UltraFino family. Alexander Bublik, a Russian-born Kazakhstani professional tennis player, and a Bianchet brand ambassador, wore the B1.618 UltraFino Skeleton Carbon during the recent Roland-Garros Grand Slam tennis tournament, where he made it to the quarterfinals.
Image: Alexander Bublik wearing the B1.618 UltraFino Carbon Skeleton at the recently held Roland-Garros.
Key Features of UT01
Image: Dial side view. Symmetrical movement architecture. Notice the 60 seconds flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the suspended mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock.
Central hours and minutes.
60 seconds flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Redesigned tourbillon and escapement.
Tourbillon cage diameter: 2.66 mm. Movement diameter: 3.85 mm.
Tourbillon cage, main plate, and bridges are made from grade 5 titanium.
Jewels: 29. Frequency: 21,600 vph or 3 Hz. Power reserve: 60 hours.
Balance spring with variable inertia or free-sprung balance. Please click here to read our interview with Alberto Morelli, CEO of Venezianico, where he talks about a free-sprung balance and beat rates.
Suspended mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock. “By eliminating the ratchet wheel, Bianchet implemented a suspended barrel system that frees vertical space while delivering a 60-hour power reserve.”
The movement is hand finished. It is sand-blasted, satin-brushed, and polished. Main plate, bridges, and tourbillon cage feature hand-bevelling.
Time-setting via the crown at 3 o’clock. The movement features “a custom winding and setting architecture, developed to reduce friction and improve energy efficiency, while offering a refined tactile experience.”
Image: Caseback view of movement. “Its gold rotor is composed of twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals, while the rear bridges form concentric golden circles that support the oscillating weight and absorb shocks.”
Shock resistance: 5000 Gs. The movement’s advanced shock protection system incorporates shock absorbing components “used at the balance and structural levels to protect delicate parts from the violent swings induced by rotor movement.”
Our Thoughts
The tourbillon is one of three classical grand complications, the perpetual calendar and minute repeater being the other two. Many believe the tourbillon is not a complication, as it does not add anything to a watch in terms of functions. Nevertheless, crafting, and regulating a tourbillon requires considerable horological skill and expertise. Collectors mostly acquire tourbillon watches for their craftsmanship, beauty, and finishing. A watch’s escapement rotating around the tourbillon cage is a remarkable sight. Among haute horology brands, Vacheron Constantin crafts some of the most beautiful tourbillon watches. The tourbillon has also been democratised by brands such as Frederique Constant and TAG Heuer.
Bianchet takes the tourbillon to another level. The B1.618 UltraFino, powered by the UT01, is designed for performance sports. The only other watch brand that comes to mind that created a similar tourbillon watch is Richard Mille, worn by renowned tennis player Rafael Nadal, winner of 22 Grand Slam tournaments.
Image: Another caseback view.
For Bianchet to create an automatic tourbillon movement that is ultra-thin, symmetrical in architecture, incorporates haute horology features such as a free-sprung balance, hand finished, AND shock resistant to 5000 Gs is a phenomenal achievement. Furthermore, Alexander Bublik wearing and testing the watch during tournaments highlights Bianchet’s confidence in its R&D and design abilities. The UT01’s ability to withstand Bublik’s backhand is a major criterion in its performance and shock-resistance worthiness.
Image: Possibly a tourbillon watch for performance pilots and astronauts.
It will be exciting to see the future direction this promising brand takes. The B1.618 UltraFino watches could possibly be worn by performance pilots and astronauts, as both experience substantial G forces. A brand to keep an eye out for.
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