Frederique Constant introduces a new version of its tourbillon watch

Frederique Constant has introduced the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture in a palm green dial. It comes with a matching strap and is clad in a 39 mm stainless steel case. It is powered by FC-980-4, a manufacture automatic movement. This new version is a “direct descendant of its 2023 predecessors.” 

Image: Palm green dial with matching strap looks great.

“In 2023, the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture already featured a striking new look with an innovative case and styling; the case was crafted from solid 18-carat pink gold, since adopted by Frederique Constant for all its Manufacture pieces. Originally, 150 timepieces were produced and since that edition, only a very few have been manufactured on rare occasions, including one sporting a meteorite dial in a platinum case and another with an aventurine dial and a white gold case. Precious metals are of course not the only option; limited editions featuring steel cases are highly sought-after by collectors too, as other leading Geneva watchmaking houses can also attest.”

Image: Blue aventurine dial and 18K white gold case.

“Many such steel watches seem to retail for as much as gold editions, but that can’t be said of this new release, situated in exactly the same price range as its 2023 forebears sporting a silvered blue dial. The pricing decision reflects Frederique Constant’s unwavering aim: delivering affordable Swiss Made watchmaking luxury complete with top-level finishings.” 

Image: Blue dial and stainless steel case.

Frederique Constant Group comprises of Frederique Constant, Alpina Watches, and Ateliers DeMonaco, and is part of Japan’s Citizen Group since 2016.

Key Features

Functions and Operations

Image: A classic hours-minutes-tourbillon watch.

Central hours and minutes.

60 seconds tourbillon at 6 o’clock. (Seconds hand on tourbillon.)

Time setting via the crown at 3 o’clock.

Dial

Image: The tourbillon and a peek into its inner workings are visible.

Palm green dial with a “radiant sunburst finish.”

Hour and minute hands are silver colour and hand polished.

The seconds hand is silver colour.

9 applied hour-markers are silver colour and faceted.

Tourbillon cage is visible via large aperture at 6 o’clock.

“It features two hand-polished central hands gliding over faceted hour markers; seconds are marked out directly by the tourbillon, where Frederique Constant has placed a slim central hand on the upper bridge – as discreetly as possible so as not to obscure the view of the tourbillon, with a glimpse of its innermost workings.”

Movement

Image: Calibre FC-980-4, a manufacture movement that features a tourbillon, silicon, and traditional finishing.

Powered by FC-980-4, a manufacture automatic movement “wholly developed and assembled in-house.” It powers the hours, minutes, and the 60 seconds tourbillon.

Jewels: 33. Frequency: 28,800 vph or 4 Hz.

Power reserve: 38 hours.

Movement features a “silicon escapement wheel and anchor.”

“The Manufacture tourbillon’s anchor and escapement wheel are made from silicon, a state-of-the-art material that Frederique Constant has used since 2008. Silicon is highly resistant to everyday magnetic fields such as those generated by computers, speakers and smartphones, and can withstand temperature fluctuations too.”

Movement finishing includes: “Chamfering (anglage), circular graining (perlage & cerclage), flanks drawing (étirage des flancs), mirror polishing (poli miroir) decorations.”

Case and Strap

Image: Silver colour hands, hour-markers, and rim around tourbillon aperture contrast well with the palm green dial. Brand’s onion shaped crown a traditional design feature.

3-part case made from polished stainless steel.

Diameter: 39 mm. Height: 10.99 mm. Lug width: 20 mm.

Dial side features a convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

Image: Caseback view of blue dial version with stainless steel case. This image used for reference purpose.

Threaded caseback features engravings and a sapphire crystal.

The individual limited edition number (XXX/150) is engraved on the movement and caseback.

Water resistant up to 5 ATM / 50 Metres / 165 feet.

Watch comes with a palm green alligator leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching. Attached to a folding buckle.

“The Classic Manufacture’s existing 39-millimetre case has been retained, combined here with a topstitched alligator deployment strap matching the dial. The understated, classic style of the case is further enhanced by the traditional onion crown harking back to the days of pocket watches, as well as a transparent caseback through which the FC-980 calibre can be admired.”

Our Thoughts

The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, as its name suggests, is a classic tourbillon, powered by a movement that incorporates silicon and traditional movement finishing.

The tourbillon is one of three grand complications. Perpetual calendar and minute repeater being the other two. (Split second chronographs also fall under grand complications.) Watches with any one of the three or a combination (any two or all three) are usually priced north of $100K, often considerably higher. Crafting them requires considerable horological expertise. When thinking about grand complications, mainstream haute horology brands such as A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and renown independents such as Andreas Strehler, Daniel Roth, De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, Gronefeld, Kari Voutilainen, Lang & Heyne, and MB&F come to mind (to name a few).

With the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, Frederique Constant has democratised the tourbillon. Its priced less than a manual winding two and three-hand watch from few of the brands mentioned above! This does not make those watches necessarily overpriced, and neither does it make Frederique Constant’s tourbillon any less than the tourbillons crafted by the above names. I think it was Jaeger-LeCoultre who first priced some of its grand complications at a “more affordable” price point. Watch industry legend Jean-Claude Biver democratised the tourbillon at TAG Heuer, a practise the brand still follows.

Affordable tourbillons fall into three camps.

• They can be polarising to collectors of grand complications from mainstream haute horology brands and independents. An affordable tourbillon might make them unhappy.
• They can be a welcome move for collectors of grand complications from mainstream haute horology brands and independents. They might embrace an affordable tourbillon to complement their expensive grand complication watches.
• They might entice collectors, who do not have the means or might never spend a stratospheric sum on a grand complication from a mainstream haute horology brand or independent, to acquire a tourbillon.

Image: An affordable haute horology grand complication watch.

The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture with its palm green dial is a lovely looking watch and a compelling addition in almost any collection.

Additional Details

Name: Classic Tourbillon Manufacture

Reference: FC-980GR3H6

Price: Euro (EUR): 14,995 – Recommended Retail Price

Limited edition of 150 pieces.

Available at Frederique Constant Points of Sale, about 3000 in 120 countries. In Dubai, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is an Authorised Retailer for the brand.

Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.

Recently we covered the brand’s Classic Worldtimer Manufacture in a forest green dial in both a stainless steel and 18K rose gold case. Read Here.