MB&F has unveiled the Legacy Machine (LM) EVO Perpetual Silicon Valley. It is a “celebration of the new MB&F Lab,” a joint effort with MB&F’s retail partner Stephen Silver Fine Jewellery, in Menlo Park, California. The MB&F Lab will open in The Villa Menlo Park in 2025.
It is the first version of this watch to feature an 18K rose gold case. It is matched with an ocean blue dial plate and strap, a tribute to California, known as the “Golden State.” It is a limited edition of 18 pieces.
MB&F
MB&F was founded by Maximilian (Max) Büsser in 2005. His resume includes time spent at Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) and Managing Director at Harry Winston Timepieces. Max resigned from the latter to found MB&F or Maximilian Büsser & Friends.
MB&F’s “resolutely unconventional” Horological Machines (HM) and “historically inspired” Legacy Machines (LM) took the horological world by storm. Categories such as Performance Art and Co-creations came later. In an industry that was (and still is) shrouded in secrecy, Max brought in transparency, hence the “Friends” in the name. Every individual or company – be it an artist, watchmaker, designer, and manufacturer in the horological ecosystem (for example case, hands, components, straps) – who work on an MB&F creation is given credit for that creation.
Design
The LM Perpetual EVO is a casual or active watch interpretation of the LM Perpetual, introduced in 2015. Given the sheer boldness of MB&F creations, conventional labels such as “dress watch,” “casual watch”, “sports watch,” etc. do not apply so easily.
“The LM Perpetual EVO is not a watch for sports. It is a watch for life.” In other words, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a GADA or Go Anywhere Do Anything perpetual calendar timepiece. A feat that only MB&F can pull off. It does not have to make sense, but then this is MB&F.
The LM EVO Perpetual Silicon Valley is the casual or GADA watch dressed in an 18K rose gold case with a rubber strap.
Key features
LM Perpetual Engine: The LM Perpetual EVO’s calibre, or the LM Perpetual Engine, “is an award-winning perpetual calendar that replaces traditional constructions with an innovative mechanical processor.” It was designed by Stephen McDonnell, a Northern Irish watchmaker, who studied Theology at Oxford University and watchmaking at WOSTEP in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. He is among the “Friends” of MB&F.
He rethought the “entire mechanical basis” of the perpetual calendar complication. Historically perpetual calendars have used 31 days as a default, and then decide whether the months have 30 days, or 28 or 29 days in the case of February and Leap Year. The LM Perpetual Engine uses 28 days as a default.
An additional safety feature disengages the actuators during the changeover of date. If the actuators are activated while the date is changing, there is no damage to the calibre.
FlexRing: A key element in the LM Perpetual EVO, the FlexRing is a monobloc shock-absorbing system. It is “an annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.” It is “machined from a single block of stainless steel, the dampener imparts exceptional robustness to the perpetual calendar.” The FlexRing reinforces the GADA nature of this watch, making the calibre resistant to shocks inevitable with an active lifestyle.
No-Bezel Construction: The LM Perpetual EVO’s domed sapphire crystal is fused directly to its 44 mm case. This design aspect creates “increased openness” and “highlights the equilibrium between the legibility of LM Perpetual EVO’s calendar indications and the cinematic play of the engine components – surmounted by the iconic MB&F hovering balance wheel.” The open dial is not just a watch with a perpetual calendar. It is pure horological theatre.
Perpetual Calendar Functions: While the LM Perpetual had circular pushers for calendar functions, the LM Perpetual EVO has “double-sprung oblong actuators.” These boost tactile comfort for the wearer and make calendar adjustments easy.
Screw-down crown: The LM Perpetual EVO’s screw-down crown allows it to have a water resistance of 80 metres. A safety feature of the screw-down crown is the débrayage of the winding stem: When the crown is pushed in and tightened, it is disengaged from the winding mechanism, preventing over-winding of the mainspring barrel. Safety features like this are always welcome in a watch, even more so in one suited for an active lifestyle.
Strap: The LM Perpetual EVO has a “closely-fitted, integrated rubber strap for the smoothest wearing experience of any MB&F Machine ever.” This strap reinforces the GADA nature of this timepiece.
Dial and Functions
Open dial showcasing time display and perpetual calendar functions.
Ocean blue colour dial plate.
Hours and minutes displayed on subdial at 12 o’clock.
Days of the week displayed on subdial at 3 o’clock.
Date displayed on subdial at 9 o’clock.
Months displayed on subdial at 6 o’clock.
Leap Year indicated by a retrograde indicator at 7 o’clock.
Power Reserve indicated by a retrograde indicator at 5 o’clock.
Each subdial is galvanic black. The arrow tip of the hands features Super-LumiNova®, “except for the leap year and power reserve.”
Calibre or Engine
Powered by a manual winding “fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism.”
Parts: 581 components. Jewels: 41 jewels.
Frequency: 18,000 vph or 2.5 Hz. Power reserve: 72 hours.
It features a “bespoke 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement.”
It is an extremely well-finished calibre, “throughout respecting 19th century style.” It features “internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft, polished bevels, Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.”
Case and Strap
Case is made from 18K rose gold.
Crown at 3 o’clock and the four oblong actuators at 2,4,8, and 10 o’clock are made from 18K rose gold.
Number of components: 70.
Case diameter: 44 mm. Thickness: 17.50 mm.
Both the dial and caseback have a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
“MB&F Lab,” “Silicon Valley,” and individual edition number “No. XX/18” are engraved on caseback.
Water resistant up to 8 ATM / 80 metres / 270 feet.
It comes with an ocean blue colour rubber strap with a rose gold folding buckle.
Our Thoughts
I wrote about the LM Perpetual EVO Blue in March this year. My thoughts about this watch have not changed: the LM Perpetual EVO is among the most exciting and sexy perpetual calendars in the world, and we should be grateful it exists.
The Silicon Valley edition, with its 18K rose gold case and ocean blue dial plate and rubber strap, is achingly beautiful. It is a fitting way to celebrate the opening of the MB&F Lab with Stephen Silver Fine Jewellery, and further cement MB&F’s strength in the North American market.
Additional Details
Name: MB&F Legacy Machine (LM) EVO Perpetual Silicon Valley
Price: United States Dollar (USD): 208,000 + Tax
Limited edition of 18 pieces.
Available exclusively at MB&F Lab (to be opened soon), a joint initiative with MB&F’s retail partner, Stephen Silver Fine Jewellery in Menlo Park, California. MB&F Lab will be located at The Villa Menlo Park, the new address of Stephen Silver Fine Jewellery.
Please visit the MB&F and Stephen Silver Fine Jewellery websites and Instagram pages for more information.
MB&F welcomed Chanel as a 25% strategic minority shareholder a few months ago. Please read here.
