IWC Schaffhausen has introduced the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph with an Obsidian-coloured dial housed in an 18K Armor Gold® case. It joins this model’s lineup which includes versions in a blue dial and platinum case, blue dial and 18K Armor Gold case, and Argenté-coloured dial and platinum case.
Left: Blue dial and Platinum case version. Middle: Blue dial and 18K Armor Gold case version. Right: Argenté-coloured dial and Platinum case version. (Image credits: IWC Schaffhausen website.)
The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph features a flying minute tourbillon, retrograde date, and a flyback chronograph.
Last year we wrote about the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night, featuring an Obsidian-coloured dial and an 18K Armor Gold case.
Key Features
Functions
Image: The retrograde date hand jumps back to 1 after reaching the 31, providing a bit of horological theatre. Lovely contrast between the Obsidian-coloured dial and the 18K Armor Gold case.
Central hours and minutes.
Flying minute tourbillon with hacking or stop seconds function at 6 o’clock.
Retrograde date display via a small hand at 9 o’clock.
Flyback chronograph functions: Central chronograph seconds hand. Chronograph hour and minute counter displayed in a totaliser at 12 o’clock.
Dial
Obsidian-coloured dial. It is crafted using a complex process involving 60 individual steps, and 15 layers of transparent lacquer to give it “an incredible optical depth and an almost three-dimensional effect.”
Feuille or leaf shaped hour and minute hands. Dauphine shaped hour and minute counter hands at 12 o’clock. Hands are gold plated.
Applied Arabic numerals and baton-shaped hour-markers (on the hour and minute scale) are made from 18k gold.
Movement
Image: The Automatic winding rotor is made from 18K 5N gold. Notice the Geneva stripes and circular graining on the movement.
Powered by IWC-manufactured calibre 89900, an automatic movement that drives the hours and minutes, flying minute tourbillon, retrograde date, and flyback chronograph functions.
Parts: 375. Jewels: 42. Frequency: 28,800 vph or 4 Hz. Power reserve: 68 hours.
Movement features:
The flying minute tourbillon weighs 0.675 grams and comprises 56 parts. “With the integrated tourbillon stop, it can be brought to a complete halt and the time set with down-to-the-second accuracy.”
Escapement components – pallet lever and escape wheel – are made of silicone and coated with Diamond Shell®, the latter a proprietary IWC technology. “This special coating reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the generous power reserve of 68 hours.”
“The flyback chronograph enables very rapid restarting of the chronograph function while it is running. When the chronograph button is pushed, the chronograph hands will immediately reset to zero and start a new timing.”
Case
Left: Notice the arched edge of the dial side sapphire crystal. Right: Notice the Santoni black alligator leather strap and the folding clasp made from 18K Armor Gold. (Image credits: IWC Schaffhausen website.)
The case, crown, and chronograph pushers are made from 18K Armor Gold. This alloy’s improved microstructure offers “significantly better hardness values than conventional gold alloys.”
Diameter: 43.50 mm. Thickness: 15.90 mm.
Dial side features a sapphire crystal with an arched edge and anti-reflective coating on both sides. Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 3 bar or approximately 30 metres.
The watch is fitted to a black alligator leather strap crafted by Santoni, an Italian brand renown for luxury shoes. Its folding clasp is made from 18K Armor Gold.
Our Thoughts
IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser – “inspired by a nautical instrument” – is a superb collection of elegant and handsome watches. No surprise that the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph evokes elegance, good looks, and is reminiscent of a navigation tool for a sea captain.
The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph has a lot going for it. Flying minute tourbillon with hacking seconds and silicone escapement components. Retrograde date complication. Flyback chronograph. All this displayed and performed via a beautiful dial that contrasts well with the gold hue of the case.
Image: A superb grand complication from IWC Schaffhausen.
Watches featuring a tourbillon and a flyback chronograph are rare. A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Chronograph come to mind. The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph might appeal to collectors who appreciate having both these complications in the same watch. It will also add aspirational value to simpler watches in the Portugieser collection and across the brand’s range.
IWC Schaffhausen has significant expertise in complications and grand complications. Please click here, here, here, here, here, and here to read a selection of our earlier coverage.
Additional Details
Name: Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph
Reference: IW394009
Limited to 100 pieces.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 125,000 / United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED) 561,000
Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.
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