DANIEL ROTH has unveiled the new Extra Plat Souscription at LVMH Watch Week held recently in New York during January 21-22. LVMH Watch Week continues in Paris during January 30-31. The Extra Plat Souscription is a two-hand dress watch. It is the revived brand’s second model, the first (two versions) being the Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold and Tourbillon Rose Gold.

Image: DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon Rose Gold. The Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold won the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award ceremony on 13 November 2024 in Geneva.
“Drawing a historical parallel with the origins of the brand in the 1990s, the second model introduced by DANIEL ROTH is a dress watch with just two hands.”
The Extra Plat Souscription is inspired by Daniel Roth’s original Extra Plat of 1990.

Image: The all new DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Souscription. An expression of simplicity.
“There is nothing nicer than an extra thin watch on the wrist.” – Daniel Roth
DANIEL ROTH is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and the Extra Plat Souscription has been developed and crafted at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Switzerland.
Key Features
Functions and Operation

Image: Sensational case profile.
Central hours and minutes.
Winding and time-setting via the crown at 3 o’clock.
Dial

Image: Hands and dial coming together.
Dial is made from yellow gold (3N).
Features a Clou de Paris guilloché pattern.
Hour and minute hands are made from thermically blued steel.
12 Roman numeral hour-markers in a blue font printed on the chapter ring.
An hour and minute scale in a blue font, graduated in increments of 5 minutes each, printed on the thinner ring.
“DANIEL ROTH” and “NUMERO XX (individual timepiece’s number),” both in a blue font, printed at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock respectively.
Dial is crafted at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.


Images: Centuries old artisanal craft performed at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton..
“The clou de Paris pattern on the dial base is engine turned on a hand-operated straight-line engine dating to circa 1935, while the filet sauté border on both the base and chapter ring is applied with a machine from around 1850. Notably, both dial components are turned by a single artisan in-house at La Fabrique du Temps in a painstaking process that requires 10 hours of work per dial just for the guillochage.

Image: Notice the deep, rich blue colour of the text and Roman numerals.
Each dial also boasts a detail only a keen-eyed observer will notice: the print on the dial, from the Roman numerals to the serial number, is in a deep, rich blue that echoes the colour of the heat-blued hour and minute hands.”
Movement



Images: DR002 is a brand new manual winding form movement that is beautifully finished.
Powered by DR002, a mechanical manual winding calibre developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton “under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.” It drives the hours and minute.
Dimensions: 31 * 28 mm. Form movement.
Thickness: 3.10 mm.
Parts: 143. Jewels: 21.
Frequency: 4 Hz. Power reserve: 65 hours (approximately).
“The DR002 is a form movement that takes the same double ellipse shape as the case. Despite its unconventional form, the calibre boasts all the hallmarks of traditional high-end watchmaking, both in terms of construction and decoration. Inspired by classical movements, the flowing outline of the bridges is finished with rounded, polished bevels known as anglage, which also incorporate sharp corners that are possible only with skilled artisanal finishing.
Attention was paid not only to the aesthetics of the calibre, but also the tactile feel. The winding click, for instance, is a single piece that’s entirely satinated. Not only does it endow the DR002 with visual beauty, the winding click is responsible for the precise, rewarding feel when winding the movement.
Despite the classicism of the movement, the technical underpinnings of the DR002 are sophisticated. The 4 Hz balance wheel, for example, is free-sprung and made up of four arms, each with a variable inertia weight for regulation – which promises superior and stable timekeeping over prolonged periods. And the single large mainspring delivers a 65-hour power reserve – a convenient three days, or a weekend’s running time.”
Case and Strap

Image: Slim case profile. Gorgeous lugs.
Double-ellipse case is made from yellow gold (3N).
Dimensions: 38.60 mm * 35.50 mm.
Thickness: 7.70 mm.
Dial side features a sapphire crystal.
Solid caseback made from 18K yellow gold.
Water resistant up to 30 metres.
Watch comes with a calfskin leather strap. Lug width: 20 mm.
“The case design stays true to the original, but has been gently reworked in keeping with the visual codes of DANIEL ROTH. The 18k yellow gold case retains the iconic double ellipse form, but with a perfectly centred godron along its outline for a balanced profile. At the same time, the lugs have been gently rounded for visual coherence and arched downwards for superior ergonomics.


Images: From the oven to one’s wrist. The 18K solid yellow gold caseback features each watch’s individual number, also printed on the dial and on the movement.
Not only is the case designed in the same style as the original, it is also put together with the traditional methods. Each of the lugs is produced as a separate component, which is then carefully soldered to the case middle, by hand and one at a time.”
Our Thoughts
Simple two and three-hand watches are often the hardest to execute and get right. When a brand gets it right, a timeless icon is created for the ages. Examples include watches from A. Lange & Söhne (1815 and Saxonia family), Jaeger-LeCoultre (Reverso), Patek Philippe (Calatrava and Golden Ellipse), Rolex (several of their collections), Vacheron Constantin (Patrimony and Traditionnelle) to name a few.
As I wrote in my article on the Tourbillon Rose Gold last year, Daniel Roth the man is considered one of the greatest watchmakers of our times. His watches and designs – created by his namesake brand founded in 1988 – still evokes wonder in the horological world and collector community. The newly revived DANIEL ROTH brand was tasked with reinterpreting his Extra Plat of 1990. Based on images and supporting information, they have done a phenomenal job.

Image: Not easy reinterpreting an icon.
Much respect to LVMH and La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for doing so with utmost respect, care, and love. Where other brands would place a “round movement” in the Extra Plat’s double-ellipse case, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has developed an all-new form movement to match its case. I just wish it had a transparent caseback. My prediction is that the yellow gold Extra Plat Souscription version will soon be followed by a rose gold version, featuring either a transparent caseback (as in the Tourbillon Rose Gold) or a hunter style caseback. That is a watch I would love to own someday.

Image: Look great on the wrist.
For now, let us celebrate the Extra Plat Souscription, one of the most beautiful two-hand watches in the world.
Additional Details
Image: Lovely presentation box.
Name: DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Souscription
Reference: DBBE01A1
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 45,000 (excluding taxes)
Limited to 20 pieces.
Please visit the DANIEL ROTH website and Instagram page for further information.
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a retailer of DANIEL ROTH watches in their Dubai Mall boutique.
