News

Vacheron Constantin unveils the sublime new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V

It debuts the Calibre 2550, an all-new ultra-thin movement with a thickness of only 2.4 mm.

What is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V?

For Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has unveiled the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V. A time-only watch, it is similar in spirit to VC’s 2000V, also a time-only Overseas reference unveiled during SIHH 2016, launched as part of the third-generation Overseas family. Crafted in white gold, it was powered by Calibre 1120 (VC designation), an automatic movement that was developed in the 1960s by JLC and the only movement to be used by the Holy Trinity of AP, PP and VC. The Overseas 2000V was discontinued a few years ago.

The new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V is crafted in 950 platinum and is powered by Calibre 2550, an all-new ultra-thin automatic movement that “is in the lineage of the legendary Calibre 1120.” It is a limited edition of 255 individually numbered pieces.

What are its dial features?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028.
Image: VC reserves its salmon dials for watches that feature platinum cases (and in this case also a platinum bracelet).

Its salmon-lacquered dial features a sunburst satin-finish in the centre. Hour and minute hands and applied hour-markers are crafted from 18K white gold and coated with blue Super-LumiNova. Outer seconds track features a velvet-finish.

How long did it take VC to develop Calibre 2550?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028's all-new Calibre 2550.
Left: Front side. Right: caseback side. Notice the platinum 950 micro-rotor (centre right) and the large suspended double barrel (top left, and top right on the front side image). Notice the 4 regulation-screws on the balance wheel, though I am not sure if it is a free-sprung balance wheel. Movement finishing is exquisite for which the brand is renown: “The main plate is circular-grained, while the bevelled bridges are decorated with Geneva stripes. The upper barrel drum is snailed, harmonising with the satin-finished barrel drum visible on the dial side. The wheels are sunburst-finished. The micro-rotor displays a circular satin finish around its periphery, an inner grained surface and a polished motif evoking a compass rose.”

Seven years. Developed and crafted by VC, it drives the hours and minutes and features a stop-seconds function (though no seconds hand). An ultra-thin movement, it measures 30.6 mm or 13 ¼ lignes (diameter) and 2.4 mm (thickness). It comprises 153 parts, 26 jewels, beats at a luxurious rate of 3 Hz or 21,600 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It features a bi-directional platinum micro-rotor, a suspended double barrel and a compact single-level gear train.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028's all-new Calibre 2550.
Image: A cutaway image of Calibre 2550.

Movement thinness is achieved by incorporating the platinum micro-rotor directly on the main plate and by having two superimposed barrels stacked one on top of the other in an inverted orientation, a feature that eliminated the need for one of the barrel covers.

“As the winding torque is transmitted directly to the upper barrel while energy is delivered by the lower barrel to the finishing gear, the ratchet could also be eliminated. Although positioned one above the other, the two barrels operate in series, coupled through their respective arbors. This configuration ensures very stable torque and therefore chronometric stability.”

What are its case, bracelet and strap features?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028.
Image: Notice how thin the case is. At 7.35 mm, it is thinner than the much loved Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 82172, which has a case thickness of 7.77 mm. I was fortunate to handle the 2500V and try it on during Watches and Wonders Geneva last week. I found it extremely heavy; platinum is a dense material after all. Notice the polished and satin-brushed half-Maltese Cross (the brand’s emblem) links on the bracelet.

Its case is crafted from 950 platinum and measures 39.5 mm (diameter) * 7.35 mm (thickness). Dial side and caseback both feature sapphire crystals. It is water resistant up to 5 bar or approximately 50 metres.

The watch comes with an interchangeable 950 platinum bracelet fitted with a folding clasp featuring push-pieces and a comfort adjustment system. A beige rubber strap and a dark beige alligator leather strap with a nubuck finish are also provided, along with a 950 platinum pin buckle.

What do we think?

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028.
Image: On the dark beige alligator leather strap.

As a watch lover deeply passionate about Vacheron Constantin, I am happy to see the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V in the brand’s collection. Though the brand has not called it as such, it is undoubtedly a spiritual successor to the Overseas 2000V. Its limited run of 255 pieces will be spoken for soon, if not already. I am sure the brand will keep the model alive in gold and (maybe) stainless steel.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V/220P-H028.
Image: A view I would never get bored off. Though I would personally want it in either a Patrimony or Traditionnelle reference crafted in pink gold. The Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V joins a select group of VC’s that have debuted a new movement, a huge deal when this happens for regular collection pieces. The Malte Grande Classique debuted Calibre 1400 in 2004 and the Historiques American 1921 debuted Calibre 4400 in 2007, both serving as work-horse movements for the brand.

During the past few years I could not help feel that the brand was so heavily focused on its ultra-complicated Cabinotiers pieces, that it neglected its “regular” collection. Holding the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V in Geneva last week and turning it over to admire Calibre 2550, my concerns were alleviated. I have heard that Calibre 1120, widely used as a base for the brand’s perpetual calendars (across the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections), are both difficult and expensive to put together and service. While it retains a nostalgic charm and cemented in horological history, the brand must think ahead. Calibre 2550 is an important step ahead.

I am sure it will eventually replace Calibre 1120, and I am guessing it might also replace Calibre 2450, the brand’s in-house automatic movement that powers the Patrimony Self-Winding (three hander with date) that has been around for 20 years or so. (Calibre 2450 is used as a base movement for a few complications.) Calibre 2550 might give birth to new models in the brand’s Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Fiftysix collections, and moving forward be used as a base movement for complications and grand complications. Imagine an ultra-thin time-only Patrimony or Traditionnelle reference with an exhibition caseback showcasing this exceptional modern movement! Exciting times ahead for the brand.

Also Read: Vacheron Constantin unveils a new version of the Overseas Tourbillon

Additional Details

Name: Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin

Reference: 2500V / 220P–H028

The watch is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal.

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 98,000 (inclusive of taxes)

Limited edition of 255 individually numbered pieces. Available exclusively at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Please visit vacheron-constantin.com to learn more about this watch and other VC novelties launched during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026.

Stay tuned on The Cornea Impression social media channels and website as we bring you content from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026.