Eberhard & Co., the La Chaux-de-fonds, Switzerland based watch brand, launched two new chronographs in 2024. Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée, a hand-wound chronograph limited to 250 pieces and Chronographe 1887 Automatique, a self-winding chronograph. Both these models premiered at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024.
“These timepieces enrich the 1887 collection, launched in 2019 to celebrate the founding date of the Maison, featuring watches with exclusive calibres that bring a contemporary interpretation to Eberhard & Co.’s historical legacy and DNA.”
“Both Chronographe 1887 models are distinguished by a unique “contemporary vintage” charm, derived from a deep study of the original chronographs from the 1930s and beyond, many of which are preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds.”
Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée
Functions
Central hours and minutes.
Central chronograph seconds hand.
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Small-seconds counter at 9 o’clock.
Dial Versions
Three dial versions.
- White coquille d’oeuf dial. It is “semi-matt with black, polished, in relief hour markers.” (.01)
- Black dial. It is “semi-matt black with white, polished, in relief hour markers.” (.02)
- Beige dial. “Central area in bronze, obtained by a special metal deposition process, silvered perimeter band and counters; black, polished, in relief hour markers and Arabic numerals (12 and 6).” (.03)
All three dials feature the following:
“Index conique type” shaped hour and minute hands.
“A fil type contrepoids ovale” shaped chronograph seconds hand.
“Feuille losange type” shaped 30-minute counter hand.
“Feuille losange type, contrepoids rond” shaped small-seconds hand.
Spiral blue tachymeter scale in km/h in the centre.
Telemetric and minute scales are graduated to 1/5th of a second.
“Diamonding between the external scales.”
Movement
Powered by Calibre EB 280, a hand wound chronograph movement. It has an AMT 5100 base which features a column wheel and fly-back function. Manufacture AMT is a brand of Sellita Watch Co. Eberhard & Co. collaborated with them for the development of Calibre EB 280. According to online sources, Manufacture AMT deals in high-end and bespoke movements for watch brands.
Movement features include:
A blued column wheel.
“A special lever enables the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially to the crown.”
“A custom upper bridge was designed in the shape of the Shield, the Maison’s emblem: a technical component integral to the calibre and a symbolically significant element.” It features a Côtes de Genève finish, personalised with the brand’s founding date (1887). The “E” on the shield is engraved in relief. All engravings are in blue.
The movement plate, near the balance, features engravings of “EB 280” and the shield, the latter in 4N gold colour.”
Case and Strap
Case is made from steel, featuring a polished and satin finish. Bezel is made from polished steel.
Diameter: 41.50 mm. Thickness: 13.90 mm. Lug width: 20 mm.
Dial side features a sapphire crystal, domed, with anti-reflective treatment on the inside.
Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Outer caseback, made from polished steel, is screwed to the main case (4 screws), and features typical watch text engravings.
Vintage inspired crown at 3 o’clock is waterproof and features a coaxial button. Coaxial button, made from polished steel, features an “E” in relief, and is for chronograph reset and flyback function.
Rectangular pusher at 2 o’clock, made from polished steel, is for chronograph start stop function.
Water resistant up to 50 metres.
Watch comes with an alligator leather strap with a steel buckle, featuring the “E” Shield. A Déclic® déployante clasp is an option.
Chronographe 1887 Automatique
Functions
Central hours and minutes.
Central chronograph seconds hand.
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Small-seconds counter at 9 o’clock.
Dial
Four dial versions.
- White dial. “Polished white with matt white counters; black, polished, in relief Arabic numerals, “12” in blue.” (.01)
- Black dial. “Polished black with matt black counters; white, polished, in relief Arabic numerals.” (.02)
- Argenté dial. “Clous de Paris finish, counters with azurée finish and diamonding on the outer part; nikel noir applied Roman numerals and rhomboidal hour markers.” (.03)
- Blue dial. “Clous de Paris finish, counters with azurée finish and diamonding on the outer part; rhodium-plated, applied Roman numerals and rhomboidal hour markers.” (.04)
The dials feature the following:
“Index conique type” shaped hour and minute hands.
“A fil type contrepoids ovale” shaped chronograph seconds hand.
“Feuille losange type” shaped 30-minute counter hand.
“Feuille losange type, contrepoids rond” shaped small-seconds hand.
The white (.01) and black (.02) dials feature a spiral tachymeter scale in km/h in the centre.
All four dials telemetric and minute scales are graduated to 1/5th of a second.
Movement
Powered by Calibre EB 380, a self-winding chronograph movement. It has an AMT 5100 base which features a column wheel and fly-back function. Manufacture AMT is a brand of Sellita Watch Co. Eberhard & Co. collaborated with them for the development of Calibre EB 380.
Movement features include:
A blued column wheel.
“A special lever enables the chronograph reset button to be displaced coaxially to the crown.”
The self-winding rotor features a Côtes de Genève and colimaçon papier finishing. The engraved shield on the rotor is in 4N gold colour and features a blue “E.”
The movement plate, near the balance, features engravings of “EB 280” and the shield, the latter in 4N gold colour.”
Case and Strap
Case is made from steel, featuring a polished and satin finish. Bezel is made from polished steel.
Diameter: 41.50 mm. Thickness: 14.40 mm. Lug width: 20 mm.
Dial side features a sapphire crystal, domed, with anti-reflective treatment on the inside.
Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Outer caseback, made from polished steel, is screwed to the main case (4 screws), and features typical watch text engravings.
Vintage inspired crown at 3 o’clock is waterproof and features a coaxial button. Coaxial button, made from polished steel, features an “E” in relief, and is for chronograph reset and flyback function.
Rectangular pusher at 2 o’clock, made from polished steel, is for chronograph start stop function.
Watch comes with an alligator leather strap with a steel buckle, featuring the “E” Shield. A Déclic® déployante clasp is an option.
Our Thoughts
Eberhard & Co. has done a wonderful job with both versions of the Chronographe 1887. With their beautiful dials and case aesthetics, they pay homage to vintage chronographs yet remain modern watches powered by easily serviceable movements. They are perfect for collectors who love vintage-inspired chronographs.
My personal favourite is the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée (hand-wound version) with the white coquille d’oeuf dial and black dial.
Additional Details
Name: Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée
Reference: 31081
Limited to 250 pieces (Not sure how this is divided among the three dial versions).
Price: Please contact Eberhard & Co. for more information. According to online sources, price is in the Swiss Franc (CHF): 7500 – 8000 range.
Name: Chronographe 1887 Automatique
Reference: 31082
Price: Please contact Eberhard & Co. for more information. According to online sources, price is in the Swiss Franc (CHF): 6500 – 6800 range.
Please visit the Eberhard & Co. website and Instagram page for more information.
According to their website, Abdulla Alsayegh Watches Trading, based in Abu Dhabi, is their official retailer in the UAE.
