MB&F unveils a sensational new watch to celebrate its 20th anniversary

MB&F has unveiled the Special Projects or SP One to celebrate its 20th anniversary. It is MB&F’s first classical 38 mm watch. Its movement is entirely visible both front and back, showcasing the barrel, balance wheel, and inclined dial at 6 o’clock. It is available in a platinum 950 or 18K rose gold case. It is MB&F’s first watch in their new “Special Projects” collection, “a realm for outliers and one-offs.”

MB&F kicked off their 20th anniversary celebrations earlier this year by launching the LM Perpetual Longhorn and LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn.

Image: Max Büsser’s original sketch of 2018.

Image: 18K Rose Gold version with an anthracite bevelled flange. Header image: 950 platinum version with a sky blue bevelled flange.

First sketched in 2018, it was later refined by renowned watch designer Eric Giroud, who has been instrumental in designing MB&F timepieces for the past 20 years.

Key Features

Left: Platinum 950 version. Right: 18K Rose Gold version. Notice the frosted finish on the top part of the skeletonised hour and minute hands.

Functions and Operation

Hours and minutes. Crown at 10 o’clock for winding and time-setting.

Dial

Black DLC inclined dial at 6 o’clock. Skeletonised hour and minute hands. Other than this, the entire SP One movement is visible both front and back.

Movement

Image: The SP One is literally a haute-horology movement showcased in a transparent case. Notice the chatons on the movement.

Powered by the SP One movement or engine, designed and developed in-house by MB&F. It is a manual winding movement that drives the hours and minutes.

A triangular movement, it features a large barrel top left, MB&F’s signature large balance wheel top right, and inclined dial at 6 o’clock with conical gearing (a feature on several Legacy Machine (LM) timepieces.)

Parts: 191. Jewels: 31. Frequency: 18,000 vph or 2.5 Hz. Power reserve: 72 hours.

Image: SP One hand-assembly.

Movement finishing incudes hand-finished interior angles, polished bevels, hand-made engravings, and anthracite bridges featuring a ruthenium finish.

Most modern two and three hand watches beat at 28,800 vph or 4 Hz. A higher beat rate equates to more stable and accurate timekeeping. Exceptions are there off course, such as German watch brands A. Lange & Söhne and Lang & Heyne, whose two and three hand watches beat at 21,600 vph or 3 Hz and 18,000 vph or 2.5 Hz respectively. According to Max Büsser, there is beauty in a 2.5 Hz slow beating balance wheel, and on large balance wheels, it is impossible to make them beat faster. According to him, a higher beat rate such as 4 Hz is easier, faster, and requires less skill for a watchmaker to regulate, hence cheaper for most brands. He adds that regulating a 2.5 Hz balance wheel requires work, talent, and finesse, and is much more beautiful.

Case 

Image: Sleek case profile.

Pebble shaped bezel-free case available in two versions: Platinum 950 and 18K rose gold.

Platinum 950 version’s bevelled flange is sky blue, whereas the 18K rose gold version’s is anthracite.

Diameter: 38 mm. Thickness: 12 mm. Lug-to-lug distance: 41.90 mm. Lug width: 18 mm. Parts: 19.

Front and back feature a sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective material. Water resistant up to 30 metres.

Watch comes with a calfskin leather strap fitted to a white gold (platinum 950 version) and rose gold (18K rose gold version) pin buckle.

Our Thoughts

How time flies. MB&F, the crazy watch brand that defied watchmaking conventions, is now 20 years old. Its eponymous founder – Max Büsser and his network of “Friends” (partners, collaborators, watchmakers, suppliers, craftspeople, literally any aspect that goes into the development, manufacture, logistics, and marketing of a watch) – have left an indelible mark on horology. MB&F’s HMs (Horological Machines), LMs (Legacy Machines), M.A.D. series, and other projects and collaborations are testament to this. By injecting “Friends” into the name, Max brought in much needed transparency in an industry obsessed with “in-house.”

Image: Pure horological theatre. Just the right amount of details and colours. Nothing excessive.

The SP One is the closest thing to a classical and elegant 38 mm “dress watch” from MB&F. I was fortunate to handle the platinum version at MB&F in Geneva in early April (under embargo at the time). It is a sensational and futuristic interpretation of a simple two hand watch. The barrel, the balance spring, and the inclined dial appear to float inside the beautifully crafted pebble shaped case. Coupled with its slow beating balance wheel, it is pure horological theatre.

Image: MB&F’s interpretation of a classical 38 mm watch on the wrist.

The SP One proves that MB&F has not become complacent after 20 years. They treat each project as if their life depends on it (one cannot say this about most large watch brands). I wonder what else they have up their sleeve in their new “Special Projects” collection (I would love to be a fly on the wall in one of their meetings). The SP One is a splendid way to celebrate their 20th anniversary. From all of us at The Cornea Impression, we wish them all the best as they soldier on towards the next 20 years.

Additional Details

Name: Special Projects or SP One

Reference: Platinum 950 and 18K Rose Gold  

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 63,000 (Platinum 950 version) and CHF 58,000 (18K Rose Gold version)

Not a limited edition, but most likely limited production.

Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.

Image: The Friends behind the SP One.

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