DE BETHUNE INTRODUCES THE DB28XP KIND OF BLUE TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE

De Bethune (DB) is among the most iconic and prestigious Independent Watch Manufacture’s in the world. On a recent tour of Asia to meet with their collectors, De Bethune’s founder, and brilliant master watchmaker – Denis Flageollet – choose Hong Kong to launch the new DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire. “This special timepiece, he believes, will resonate with a market attuned to the vibrations of such artifacts and the energy they exude.”

Design:

The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire is a “seamless evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon.” “It encapsulates the best of both worlds by merging the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a distinctly blue aesthetic inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, a hallmark of the Manufacture’s signature style.”

The DB28 collection is among De Bethune’s most iconic and signature designs. The functions of the DB28XP are hours and minutes, in an ultra-thin sleek polished grade 5 titanium case. The DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, appears similar to the DB28XP in design. However, its case is in blued grade 5 mirror polished titanium, another De Bethune signature. In addition to hours and minutes, it has a tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock with a 30-seconds indicator, and power-reserve indicator at the back.

Dial:

The gorgeous dial of the DB28XP Kind of Blue Sapphire is a study in art and detail.

Specific details of the Dial are as follows:

The hour and minute hands are crafted from polished titanium.

On the inner edge of the dial, there is a “titanium hour ring with blued microlight decoration and polished hour markers.”

On the outer edge of the dial, there is a “blued grade 5 circular satin titanium minutes and second ring.”  On this ring, the hours are denoted with a polished circular hour marker, except for 6 o’clock, where it states ‘Seconds’, just below the tourbillon cage; and at 12 o’clock, where is states ‘60’. Beyond this ring, is the middle case, which is set with baguette sapphires, hence the ‘Sapphire’ in the name of the timepiece.

The tourbillon cage with 3-seconds indicator is situated at the lower part of the dial at 6 o’clock.

“Bridge cover on the barrel and triangular central bridge in grade 5 blued polished titanium with blued drawn chamfered contour.”  And this bridge cover has “milky way patterns produced by laser beam micro milling, gilded with 24-carat gold leaf.”

In De Bethune’s own words: “This is a realm where layers of interpretation, textures, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections take center stage. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch unveils an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue hue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, transforming each timepiece into a unique work of art.” “The dial, entirely crafted in Microlight, breathes new life into and modernises the traditional guilloche technique. Across its expansive flat surface, this method gains newfound significance, reinforcing its structure. By playing with shadow and light, it introduces depth, resulting in a more structured and dynamic architectural outcome. The overall effect becomes distinctly contemporary.”

Case:

The case of the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire is a work of art, with meticulous thought in each detail.

Specific details of the Case are as follows:

The case is crafted in “blued polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle set with baguette sapphire.”

Case diameter of 43mm and a case thickness of 9.1mm.

It has “blued polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006).”

The crown for winding and setting the time is at 12 o’clock (2 positions).

Sapphire crystal (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating for both dial and caseback side. “Screwed case back in blued polished titanium and open on a linear power reserve indicator.”

Water resistance of 3 ATM.

Its strap is crafted from “extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining.”  The buckle and pin and crafted from blued grade 5 titanium.

In De Bethune’s own words: “True to the essence of all models in its collection, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire consistently surprises with the lightweight construction of its case. Crafted entirely from polished blued grade 5 titanium with a microlight case, embellished with sapphire rods and mounted on floating lugs that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist – a patented De Bethune system. The case features a more contoured profile, following the natural lines of the wrist. The Microlight finish of the baseplate extends onto the sides, reaching the outer edge of the case – a meticulous undertaking that proves challenging in the absence of simple geometric elements.”

Calibre:

The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire is powered by De Bethune in-house mechanical hand-wound calibre DB2009v5. Its functions are hours, minutes, 30 seconds indicator “via the ultra-light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock”,  and power reserve indicator at the back of the calibre. This phenomenal calibre comprises of 380 parts, 40 jewels, beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, and has a power reserve of 5 days, “ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel.”  The latter is a De Bethune Innovation of 2004.

Other features of Calibre DB2009v5 are as follows:

Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration. De Bethune Patent (2016).

“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve. De Bethune Patent (2006).

Silicon escape wheel.

Ultra-light De Bethune 30” tourbillon in titanium. De Bethune Innovation (2008).

Calibre DB2009v5 is adorned with “hand-crafted finishing and decoration.”

De Bethune Calibre DB2009v5 is a masterpiece, and at the absolute pinnacle of horology. The following paragraphs in De Bethune’s own words shares further details and insight.

“The manually winding DB2009v4 movement features the distinctive De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial via a 6 o’clock opening. It is the outcome of De Bethune’s ongoing physical and mathematical approach to enhancing its functionality. This balance wheel incorporates the latest advancements – modest in diameter, crafted from titanium, and fitted with small white gold weights positioned externally, providing it with exceptional inertia, reliability, and remarkable regulating quality.” “Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, a delicate spring considered the soul of the mechanical watch, it has been meticulously designed to maintain its center of gravity precisely at the midpoint. This is achieved through a flat curve fixed externally to the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development, offering numerous advantages, including reduced height, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the pallet, eliminating the need for pins, and the curve’s shape acting as a shock absorber.” “Furthermore, the internal structure of the material remains intact, having been neither stressed nor bent. Through these proven and continually evolving enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, extending it to a total of 5 days. This achievement is visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.”

“In the expansive array of complications and functions that De Bethune has mastered, the tourbillon has often taken a leading role. A tourbillon equipped with an extraordinarily lightweight cage (0.18 gr., the lightest ever created) rotating every thirty seconds, comprising a total of 63 components (the lightest of which weighs less than 0.0001 gram!).” “Today, a wrist-worn watch experiences significantly more “torture” than a pocket watch. Rapid and erratic wrist movements impose kinetic brutality on watch mechanics, warranting careful consideration. Just as Breguet invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of Earth’s gravity and enhance the precision of marine watches, De Bethune sought ways to optimize it for today’s wristwatches.” “The equation? To be more effective on a wrist subjected to quick and erratic movements, the tourbillon must have a higher frequency and a faster rotation speed. By creating a tourbillon in titanium and silicon with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour and an extraordinarily lightweight cage rotating every thirty seconds, describing the fest is easier than achieving it. Much like an airborne insect, a true ekoskeleton maintains the entire structure.” “Thus, the De Bethune tourbillon, so small, so light, so fast, simply fulfils its function better for contemporary watches. The futuristic shape of the tourbillon bridge symmetrically and perfectly supports the tourbillon on both sides, keeping it in its position.”

The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire is as much a work of art as it is a timepiece. Each detail is meticulously thought about, whether they belong to the dial, case, lugs, buckle, and off course the calibre. The way the sapphires are discreetely set in the middle of the case; especially how they are shaped to fit the case towards the top portion of the case, near the crown at 12 o’clock, illustrate mastery from De Bethune. The combination of the blue colour of the case and the blue colour of the sapphires goes well together. The discreet setting of the sapphires ensures that the timepiece retains its futuristic aesthetic, and not one which is unnecessarily ‘loud’ and ‘bling.’

De Bethune are experts at combining the principles and art of horology from the past and reinterpreting it towards the future. The ability to do this brilliantly makes De Bethune an incredibly gifted watchmaker, and makes the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire a truly special timepiece.

Version:

Name: DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire.

Reference: DB28XPTJB.

Limited to ten timepieces.

Price: Swiss Francs (CHF): 280,000 (Excluding Taxes).

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