What is the new Breitling Chronomat?
Breitling has given the Chronomat collection a thorough upgrade. The changes include “a fully integrated case and bracelet design,” a slimmer case profile and a streamlined bezel.
The models include the Chronomat B01 42, the collection’s chronograph, and the Chronomat Automatic B31 40 and Chronomat Automatic 36, the latter two three-hand watches with date. They are available in a variety of dials housed in a case and Rouleaux bracelet (or rubber strap) made from stainless steel, two-tone or precious metal. The three models encompass twenty-two references. We take a close look at them.
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Chronomat B01 42
The collection’s three register chronograph, the Chronomat B01 42 is available in stainless steel, two-tone and precious metal.
Their case measures 42 mm (diameter) * 13.77 mm (thickness). Lug-to-lug distance: 45.8 mm. Lug width: 20.05 mm. Dial side features a cambered sapphire crystal; glare proofed on both sides. The screwed in caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is up to 20 bar or approximately 200 meters.
They are powered by Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, an automatic chronograph movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch. It drives the central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph functions: central 1/4th seconds, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and date at 6 o’clock. It measures 30 mm (diameter) * 7.2 mm (thickness), comprises 320 parts and 47 jewels, beats at a modern frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement is COSC Certified.
The three stainless steel references feature white, blue or green dials with black counters. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Each reference is available with either a stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system or a dial-matching Rouleaux inspired rubber strap with a stainless steel butterfly clasp.
The two-tone stainless steel and gold reference features an anthracite dial with black counters. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Its bezel is made from stainless steel and 18K red gold. It is available with either a two-tone (stainless steel and 18K red gold) Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system or a black Rouleaux inspired rubber strap with a stainless steel butterfly clasp.
The 18K red gold reference features a brown dial with black counters. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. It is available with either an 18K red gold Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system or a brown Rouleaux inspired rubber strap with an 18K red gold butterfly clasp.
The stainless steel and platinum reference features an ice blue dial with black counters. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Its bezel is made from platinum. It is available with either a platinum Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system or a black Rouleaux inspired rubber strap with a butterfly clasp.
Reference: AB0158101A1A1(stainless steel, white dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,600. Reference: AB0158101A1S1 (stainless steel, white dial on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,250. Reference: AB0158101C1A1 (stainless steel, blue dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,600. Reference: AB0158101C1S1 (stainless steel, blue dial on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,250. Reference: AB0158101L1A1 (stainless steel, green dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,600. Reference: AB0158101L1S1 (stainless steel, green dial on rubber strap) Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,250.
Reference: UB0158101B1U1 (two-tone stainless steel and 18K red gold on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 12,900. Reference: UB0158101B1S1 (two-tone stainless steel and 18K red gold on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 9,900.
Reference: RB0158101Q1R1 (18K red gold on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 49,900. Reference: RB0158101Q1S1 (18K red gold on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 29,900.
Reference: PB0158101C1A1 (stainless steel and platinum on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 11,300. Reference: PB0158101C1S1 (stainless steel and platinum on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 10,950.
All prices are inclusive of VAT. Warranty: 5 years. Extendable up to 3 years (since the model features a Breitling Manufacture movement).
Chronomat Automatic B31 40
The larger three-hander with date, the Chronomat Automatic B31 40 is available in stainless steel and stainless steel and platinum.
Their case measures 40 mm (diameter) * 10.99 mm (thickness). Lug-to-lug distance: 43.7 mm. Lug width: 18.05 mm. Dial side features a cambered sapphire crystal; glare proofed on both sides. The screwed in caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is up to 20 bar or approximately 200 meters.
They are powered by Breitling Manufacture Caliber B31, an automatic movement that drives the central hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o’clock. It measures 28.4 mm (diameter) * 4.8 mm (thickness), comprises 181 parts and 26 jewels, beats at a modern frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 78 hours. The movement is COSC Certified.
The three stainless steel references feature white, blue or green dials. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Each reference is available with a stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system.
The stainless steel and platinum version feature an ice blue dial. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. The bezel is made from platinum. It is available with either a stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system or a black Rouleaux inspired rubber strap with a butterfly clasp.
Reference: AB3114101A1A1 (stainless steel, white dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 5,900. Reference: AB3114101C1A1 (stainless steel, blue dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 5,900. Reference: AB3114101L1A1 (stainless steel, green dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 5,900.
Reference: PB3114101C1A1 (stainless steel and platinum on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,300. Reference: PB3114101C1S1 (stainless steel and platinum on rubber strap). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 7,950
All prices are inclusive of VAT. Warranty: 5 years. Extendable up to 3 years (since the model features a Breitling Manufacture movement).
Chronomat Automatic 36
The reduced size version of the three-hander with date, the Chronomat Automatic 36 is available in stainless steel and two-tone.
Their case measures 36 mm (diameter) * 9.68 mm (thickness). Lug-to-lug distance: 39.5 mm. Lug width: 16.05 mm. Dial side features a cambered sapphire crystal; glare proofed on both sides. The screwed in caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistance is up to 10 bar or approximately 100 meters.
They are powered by Breitling 10, a Sellita-based automatic movement that drives the central hours, minutes, seconds and date at 6 o’clock. It measures 25.6 mm (diameter) * 3.6 mm (thickness), comprises 25 jewels, beats at a modern frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement is COSC Certified.
The stainless steel references feature a blue dial, white mother-of-pearl dial with lab-grown diamond hour-markers and gray mother-of-pearl dial with lab-grown diamond hour-markers (featuring a bezel adorned with lab-grown diamonds). The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. They are available with a stainless steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system.
The two-tone stainless steel and 18K red gold references comprise two models:
White mother-of-pearl dial with lab-grown diamond hour markers. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Its bezel is made from stainless steel and 18K red gold. It is available with a two-tone (stainless steel and 18K red gold) Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system.
Brown dial with lab-grown diamond hour-markers. The hands and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Its bezel is adorned with lab-grown diamonds. It is available with a two-tone (stainless steel and 18K red gold) Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp and a new patented micro-adjustment system.
Reference: A10320101C1A1 (stainless steel, blue dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 5,100. Reference: A10320101A1A1 (stainless steel, white mother-of-pearl dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 6,150. Reference: A10320591G1A1 (stainless steel, grey mother-of-pearl dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,800. Reference: U10320101A1U1 (two-tone stainless steel and 18K red gold, white mother-of pearl dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 10,500. Reference: U10320591Q1U1 (two-tone stainless steel and 18K red gold, brown dial on bracelet). Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 12,500.
All prices are inclusive of VAT. Warranty: 2 years. Extendable up to 2 years.
What do we think?
Icons are icons for a reason. The period they are launched, the style and trends, global circumstances, state of the watch industry and what other brands are doing – all during that point of time collectively lay the foundation for a design to eventually become an “icon.” Notable examples include the Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Cartier’s Santos and Tank, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava and Nautilus and Rolex’s Datejust and Submariner among others. Each represents decades of history. Yet there is no formula for creating an icon. Someone took a huge risk not knowing the outcome years later. And you have to wait and watch. A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 is one of the best (relatively recent) examples of this as it was launched in 1994.
Breitling’s Chronomat is no exception. Conceived in the 1980s as an aviation watch for the Italian Air Force’s aerobatics team, the Frecce Tricolori, it soon became a 1990s global fashion and pop culture statement, especially in places like New York and Tokyo. During the 90s, it made appearances in popular TV shows such as Friends and Seinfeld in the US. In Japan, “it entered Japanese pop culture as a plot device in the manga Kaiji.” Celebrity Chef Gordon Ramsay, French business tycoon Bernard Tapie and actor Jean-Paul Belmondo wore one.
Updating an icon is not as easy task. Yet as the decades move on, tastes and trends evolve and brands find themselves dealing with an increasingly demanding and sophisticated global audience, evolving them becomes a necessity. Case sizes, dials, bracelets and clasps, materials, movements all need an update. Get it wrong, and the watch community will be unforgiving. Get it right, and an entirely new generation of watch enthusiasts and collectors will get hooked.
Breitling has done a tremendous job reinventing the Chronmat collection. The new models are full of interesting details, offered in a variety of dials and metal options with either a bracelet or rubber strap and powered by high-quality robust movements. There is “something for everyone,” whether priced at CHF 5,100 or CHF 49,900, and evoking craftsmanship across the range. A watch from this collection will surely bring a smile to its owner and be a compelling addition to his or her watch collection.
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Please visit www.breitling.com to learn more about the Chronmat collection.
