Audemars Piguet has introduced the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary.” As part of their 150th anniversary year, this beautiful model bids farewell to Calibre 5135, “the historic openworked perpetual calendar movement” that has powered their openworked perpetual calendar watches since 2015. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” is the final model to incorporate Calibre 5135.
Audemars Piguet introduced the Calibre 7138, their new generation automatic perpetual calendar movement where all corrections are performed via the “all-in-one” crown, without the need for any pushers on the side of the case. Please read here.
Key Features
Image: Notice the mirror-polished BMG bezel and bracelet studs, and how well they contrast with the satin-brushed titanium case, crown, and bracelet links.
Functions
Central hours and minutes.
Perpetual calendar functions: Day of the week on subdial at 9 o’clock. Date on subdial at 3 o’clock. Month and leap year indicator on subdial at 12 o’clock.
Week indication (via a central hand) on the inner bezel.
Astronomical moon phase display on subdial at 6 o’clock.
Dial
Image: Love the combination of blue and white accents. Moon phase is based on a NASA photograph. Notice the old font for the brand’s name.
Dial is made from sapphire. Blue inner bezel is made from brass. Blue openworked subdials with white markings. The 8-round hour-markers and bathtub shaped hour and minute hands are made from 18K white gold and coated with luminescent material.
Movement
Image: Final farewell for the Calibre 5135. While it beats at a luxurious 19,800 vph or 2.75 Hz, the new Calibre 7138 beats at a modern 28,800 vph or 4 Hz.
Powered by Calibre 5135, an automatic movement that drives the hours and minutes, perpetual calendar functions, week indication, and astronomical moon phase display.
Diameter: 29 mm (12 ¾ lignes). Thickness: 4.50 mm. Parts: 374. Jewels: 38. Frequency: 19,800 vph or 2.75 Hz. Power reserve: 40 hours.
Case and Bracelet
Image: The skeletonised automatic winding rotor provides an unobstructed view of Calibre 5135.
Diameter: 41 mm. Thickness: 9.90 mm.
Middle case and screw-locked crown at 3 o’clock are made from titanium. Bezel and caseback frame are made from a material called Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG).
Audemars Piguet’s BMG “is palladium-based, granting it high resistance to wear and corrosion as well as enhanced brilliance.” It features mirror-polished surfaces that contrast well with the satin-brushed titanium case and bracelet links.
Dial and caseback feature a glare proof sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 20 metres.
Integrated bracelet’s links are made from titanium and studs from BMG. It is fitted to a three-blade titanium folding clasp.
Our Thoughts
As I wrote in a recent article, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is among the most famous, iconic, and sought-after watch families in the world. Even within this exalted world, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” stands out as both a beautiful and a special watch. Beautiful as it combines an attractive vintage-inspired openworked dial paired with a slim-profile Royal Oak case and integrated bracelet. Special, as it is the farewell model for the Calibre 5135, making it immensely collectible (not that other Royal Oaks are not collectible). The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” is a horological gem.
Additional Details
Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary”
Reference: 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01
Limited to 150 pieces
Price: Upon request
Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.
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