What is the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar?
The Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is an updated version of the original namesake reference that was introduced in 2019.
The original Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar featured “a patented dual frequency movement” that could be selected by the wearer. This included “a high-frequency Active mode” (5 Hz or 36,000 vph) for when the watch is worn and “a low-frequency Standby mode” (1.2 Hz or 8,640 vph) for when the watch is not worn.
Perpetual calendar settings must be readjusted if they have not been worn for a long time, often a cumbersome process. The rationale for the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is for the wearer to switch to Standby mode when unworn, as the extra-slow beat 1.2 Hz frequency allowed for an extended power reserve of 65 days, or about two months, as the movement’s energy consumption was reduced. And switch back to Active mode when worn. The wearer would not need to adjust the perpetual calendar functions; at most he or she might need to readjust the time a bit, as it would not keep 100% accurate time under Standby mode.
The new Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar features an “optimised” movement that delivers 70 days of power reserve under Standby mode (additional 5 days from the original model) “without any loss in timekeeping accuracy” and an updated dial.
Also Read: Vacheron Constantin unveils a new classic perpetual calendar
What are its dial features?
It features a multi-layer dial with a mix of “contemporary textures and sandblasted finishes.” The inner or upper part features slate-grey coloured hand guilloché radiating pattern on an 18K white gold surface. The raised and applied baton-shaped hour-markers and Dauphine-shaped faceted hour and minute hands are made from 18K white gold. The date and month hands are made from 18K white gold, sandblasted and rhodium-plated. The power reserve and frequency-mode hands are made from 18K white gold with black PVD treatment. The lower part of the dial features a “transparent sapphire-crystal opening” displaying the movement’s mechanics and the mainplate.
“To optimise the readability of the displays, the power reserve, day and month counters have been modified and laser-etched glass gives them a frosted appearance that contrasts with the colour of the movement and the guilloché upper dial.”
Is it powered by a hand wound movement?
Yes. Calibre 3610 QP powers it, a hand wound movement “developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin.” It drives the central hours and minutes, instantaneous perpetual calendar functions of the date (7 o’clock), month (5 o’clock) and leap year indicator at 6 o’clock, and dual-scale power reserve (12 o’clock) and frequency-mode (between 8 and 10 o’clock).
It measures 32 mm (diameter) * 6 mm (thickness) and comprises 480 parts and 64 jewels. In Active mode, it beats at 5 Hz and delivers a power reserve of 4 days and in Standby mode, it beats at 1.2 Hz and delivers a power reserve of 70 days. The movement features two gear trains that are “powered by a series of coaxial barrels.”
“To increase the power reserve of Calibre 3610 QP, further research focused on the instantaneously jumping perpetual calendar indications. Generally, this type of display affects the amplitude of the balance wheel, leading to a loss of precision. To address this, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers and engineers developed a new double-gear spring-winding mechanism. Operating on a principle similar to that of the first version of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat, this patented system is designed to maximise energy-efficiency. Indeed, it requires four times less torque than conventional instant-jump mechanisms, making the date change much less energy-intensive. It is this optimisation, together with the refinement of the system as a whole – particularly in 1.2 Hz mode – that has enabled the power reserve to be increased by 5 days.”
What are its case and strap features?
Its case is made from Platinum 950, measuring 42 mm (diameter) * 12.3 mm (thickness). Dial side and caseback feature sapphire crystals. Water resistant up to 3 bar or (approximately) 30 metres. The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap, featuring a textured pattern, a “hand-stitched calfskin lining with red thread” and fitted with a Platinum 950 pin buckle.
“With a rate of 1.2 Hz, the watchmakers and engineers at Vacheron Constantin found a balanced compromise, giving Calibre 3610 QP a power reserve of more than two months in ‘Standby’ mode, with a constant amplitude throughout the duration. In “Active” mode, the calibre boasts a four-day power reserve. To enhance ease of use, Vacheron Constantin’s engineers developed a push-button-operated switching system set in the case-side at 8 o’clock, with a mode indicator displayed by a hand on the dial. This patented system maintains the display of the time and calendar information during the transition between high-frequency Active mode (5 Hz) and low-frequency Standby mode (1.2 Hz), switching instantly from high to low, and vice versa. By stopping one balance wheel to start the other, this causes no interruption in the calibre’s energy chain, thus ensuring a constant display of the time and calendar indications.”
What do we think?
I fell in love with the original Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar when it was launched in 2019. It was also misunderstood, an impression I got judging by the reactions on one of the watch groups I was a part of back then. The common perception of Vacheron Constantin (VC) is that of (mostly) classical design timepieces (whether watches or pocket watches). It is a bit like equating them with Rolls Royce (RR), renowned for their front-engine ultra-luxurious automobiles or “yachts for the road.” Yet one seldom imagines RR developing a high-performance (perhaps mid-engine) supercar. The Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is exactly that, VC’s equivalent of a high-performance supercar.
It was VC highlighting its risqué side to the horological community. The brand has shed its classical wardrobe in the past: the Quai de l’ile launched in 2008 and Les Cabinotiers (VCs bespoke division) pieces such as the Armillary Tourbillon (in various guises) come to mind. There have been others too, several from Les Cabinotiers, such as the Cosmica-Duo Grand Complication, and others which we will never know off (unless they appear at auction) because the clients choose confidentiality.
VC discontinued several grand complication references during the past few years, mostly in the Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections (but not necessarily their movements; these or their variations show up in Les Cabinotiers pieces). The Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar was among them. I had begun to believe that the brand’s sole focus became their sporty Overseas collection. Which is perfectly ok; the third generation Overseas launched in 2016 finally put the brand on the “larger” horological map, seeped into the mind space of collectors, became part of their conversations, and hugely elevated the brand financially.
The updated Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is a sort of teaser for “other things” to come from VC. I wrote in my Watches and Wonders top picks article that my favourite launch from the brand was not a watch but a movement, the Calibre 2550 debuting in the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. It is as if the dots are beginning to connect.
The Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar is watchmaking at its highest level, and is one of many examples showcasing why this 271-year-old watchmaker – the oldest in continuous operation – is part of the famed Holy Trinity. One that can delight with its classical timepieces and is also not afraid to let its hair down occasionally. Exciting time ahead for the brand.
Also Read: Vacheron Constantin unveils the sublime new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V
Additional Details
Name: Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
Reference: 3200T/000P-H167
The watch is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal.
Price: On request
Please visit vacheron-constantin.com to learn more about this watch.
