It has been quite a year for watch brands. The mainstream and independent watch brands, as well as microbrands, delighted and surprised with new creations; some of them spectacular and beyond words. It has also been a year of anniversaries. Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, Breguet’s 250th anniversary, MB&F’s 20th anniversary, and Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary.
At The Cornea Impression, we were fortunate to see as well as handle many watches this year – across Dubai, Geneva, and India. As we say goodbye to 2025, I want to highlight a few watches that I believe are among the best of this year.
A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
When we think of A. Lange & Söhne (Lange), their iconic Lange 1 collection, impressive chronographs (Saxonia, 1815, and Odysseus collections), and various concoctions of grand complications (across their collections) and chronometry (Richard Lange collection) come to mind. Since Lange’s rebirth in 1994, a minute repeater was not a part of their collection. The 1815 Grand Complication of 2013, Zeitwerk Minute Repeater of 2015, and Richard Lange Minute Repeater of 2022 gradually changed this. The brand that can whip up chronographs in its sleep was finally able to boast a minute repeater – one of the most difficult to craft horological complications – as part of its offering.
The Minute Repeater Perpetual – part of the Saxonia collection – is powered by Calibre L122.2, a hand wound movement that drives all the functions. It incorporates Calibre L122.1 (the movement that powers the Richard Lange Minute Repeater) with a perpetual calendar function. Featuring a black enamelled dial on a 750 gold base and housed in a 950 platinum case measuring 40.5 mm * 12.1 mm, it is the German brand’s answer to a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar (and often a tourbillon) that has historically been the domain of the Holy Trinity of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. Lange has often been considered the fourth member of the Holy Trinity. The Minute Repeater Perpetual reaffirms this and solidifies the brand’s undisputed position as one of the greatest watch brands on the planet.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
I was not a huge fan of the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso Tribute Geographic when I saw it on the first day of Watches and Wonders Geneve. I do not recall the exact reason why; maybe I found the date window a tad small in relation to the small seconds subdial, or it could be that I had just rushed back from Old Town Geneva where I handled a few watches (including an embargoed piece) from an independent watchmaker that left my head spinning! But as the weeks and months went by, and the more I read about the Reverso Tribute Geographic and saw my own photos and those on social media, the more I gained an appreciation for this new innovative world time watch from JLC. It grew on me, which is a natural occurrence with many watches and other luxury categories.
The front or recto dial is classic Reverso – hours, minutes, small seconds, and a new patented Grande date. The reverse or verso dial displays the 24-time zone indication by a rotating hour disc featuring a world map in the centre – among the more unique world time watches in the market today. The watch is powered by JLC Calibre 834, a manually wound movement that drives all the functions. It is useful for those who need to know the time in another time zone/s (whether at their desk or travelling) or those day dreaming about a vacation far away. I would be happy to own the stainless steel version. I would wear it with the reverse side on top; a conversation starter at watch GTGs for sure.
MB&F SP One
Ever since MB&F’s founding by Maximilian (Max) Büsser in 1995, its watches have been dominated by the audacious HMs (Horological Machines) and classically inspired (and equally audacious) LMs (Legacy Machines). (The M.A.D. series is a sub-brand within MB&F that attempts to evoke the brand’s creativity at an accessible price point.)
For its 20th anniversary, the brand unveiled a third collection to its lineup – SP or Special Projects – with the first model being the SP One. Based on a sketch by Max in 2018, it was later refined by Eric Giroud, the renowned designer responsible for most of the brand’s creations. The SP One is the brand’s interpretation of a “simple” two-hand or dress watch – one which is so breathtakingly original both in design and execution. The open dial reveals three symmetrically placed “circles” – hours and minutes subdial (at 6 o’clock), large barrel (at 10 o’clock), and large slow-beat (2.5 Hz or 18,000 vph) free-sprung balance wheel (at 3 o’clock). Flip over to the caseback, and the in-house triangular-shaped haute horology movement is visible.
I was fortunate to handle both versions of the SP One in Geneva prior to its release. Even by the brand’s own unreal standards, the SP One stood out. Independent watch brands are born at a rapid pace these days (each showcasing something “new” and “unique” – whether real or imaginary). In this competitive (and often confusing) landscape, the SP One reminds us just how incredibly special MB&F is. It is a fitting tribute for their milestone 20th anniversary.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
Patek Philippe’s (PP) Calatrava 6196P is the much-awaited successor to the brand’s Calatrava 5196, itself a direct descendant of the Reference 96 (circa 1930’s – 1940’s), among the most important watches of all time.
While versatile sports watches such as those from PP’s Nautilus, Aquanaut, and (recently launched) Cubitus collections garner most attention, it is the classical watches from their Calatrava and Golden Ellipse collection that evoke the purest sentiments of the brand. The Calatrava 6196P is the new king of dress watches – an important segment today – and will set the standards by which similar watches from other brands are judged. It is only a matter of time before the brand unveils the 6196 in gold (rose, white, and hopefully yellow gold). A future version in gold is high on my wish list.
Rolex Land-Dweller
Rolex is renowned for making incremental changes to its collections over time. Unless the brand is extremely sure of something – be it mechanical to do with the movements, or aesthetics to do with the dials, fonts, colours, bezels, case, bracelets etc. – they do not budge. Rolex does not change something for the sake of changing it. And this is why Rolex is Rolex. So, it came as a surprise when the Land-Dweller collection was launched during Watches and Wonders Geneva. (The Land-Dweller is akin to Ferrari launching a new model which features an all-new engine, chassis, and body!)
An all-new collection from the brand, it is powered by the new Calibre 7135 that features the new Dynapulse escapement and a new innovative oscillator – the entire symphony beating at a high rate of 5 Hz or 36,000 vph. Featuring a dial with a honeycomb pattern, a flat jubilee integrated bracelet, and a transparent caseback showcasing Calibre 7135 – the Land-Dweller is a Rolex through and through, yet one with a daring and edgy side. And now one of the most important watches in the world.
Vacheron Constantion Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première
Vacheron Constantin (VC) has had quite a year. Founded in 1755, it is the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in the world that celebrated its 270th anniversary this year. Their impressive ultra grand complications and Métiers d’Art creations launched this year are enough to give other haute horology brands sleepless nights – and makes their new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin seem less like a grand complication and more like a simple dress watch!
The Solaria’s 41 complications feature 5 rare astronomical complications (including a world first) and an innovative Westminster minute repeater. A result of 8 years of development, the calibre 3655 features 1521 components. 13 patent applications have been filed for it. It is “a masterpiece of innovation and miniaturisation,” and the most complicated wristwatch ever made. As I wrote in an earlier article on the Solaria, it joins an elite club of timepieces (wristwatches and pocket watches) that will define horology for decades to come. It is as much an event as it is a watch, and we should celebrate its existence.
Honourable Mentions
It is not an easy task selecting six watches when there are so many deserving candidates. The above list is based on my personal experience with these watches this year. That said, I wanted to highlight a few honourable mentions:
Audemars Piguet’s Calibre 7138 – a new generation perpetual calendar movement where all corrections are performed by the crown without the need for any pushers on the case – is worthy of mention. It made its debut on a Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet and two Royal Oak references.
Massena LAB’s Old Soul – a collaboration with renowned independent watchmaker Vianney Halter – was gorgeous in the flesh. Featuring Vianney Halter’s imagination, powered by a vintage Minerva movement (calibre 17’22, developed in the 1920s and used in pocket watches until 1942), and Massena LAB’s world-class execution, it evokes William Massena’s (founder of Massena LAB) eclectic taste in watches and is among the best watches of this year.
MB&F’s HM11 Art Deco – the second iteration of the HM11 Architect – unveiled during the recently held Dubai Watch Week 2025 was another showstopper. For me it was the watch of the show and is among the best watches of this year.
Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] – the worlds lightest mechanical dive watch weighing less than 52 grams deserves special mention. Not because of its lightness, but because it showcases the brands commitment to sustainability and transparency by acknowledging its choice of industry partners who helped them with recycled and upcycled materials to bring this watch to life.
Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps Mecanique D’Art clock created as part of the brand’s 270th anniversary is a once-in-a-lifetime horological creation. VC collaborated with François Junod – a world renowned automaton expert or automatier, L’Épée 1839 for the clock mechanism and casing, Geneva Observatory for the clock’s“celestial narrative,” Woodkid – musician and artistic director for the melodies, and various other master artisans for their “artistic decoration” and other skills. Featuring the Dome (featuring the automaton or “Astronomer”), the Astronomical clock (front and back dial), and the Base, the La Quête Du Temps Mecanique D’Art joins some of the most impressive works of art in history. In future decades, visitors to VC in Geneva will enjoy a brief minute-and-a-half performance of the Astronomer’s choreography set to accompanying melodies.
Montres Breguet’s new launches this year were phenomenal; all in honour of their 250th anniversary. We cannot wait to see how they completely overhaul their catalogue during the next two years under the leadership of Gregory Kissling, their CEO. Chopard and its sister brand Ferdinand Berthoud did incredible work with their Grand Strike and Naissance d’une Montre 3, respectively. Roger Dubuis is revisiting its beautiful old design codes with the launch of the Hommage La Placide perpetual calendar. I am excited to see what else they unveil.
Stay tuned for tons more horological coverage in 2026.
