The Only Watch 2023 – My Top 10 Choices
The Only Watch 2023 auction is here and its time to witness some fantastic timepieces from top brands, check out my selection from their 62-pieces collection. Hope you enjoy reading this one!
Only Watch was created in 2005 to auction one-off timepieces from various brands and the proceedings would be directed towards medical research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD). DMD is a muscle-degenerative disease which is essentially a genetic disorder and caused by changes in a protein keeping muscles intact. The Only project was initiated by Luc Pettavino after a personal experience within his family. Luc created the Only Watch auction with the sole objective of raising funds for DMD research, however, by doing that, he also created a much sought-after biannual event which created a positive movement within the watch industry. Watch companies go all-out and try different experiments on their timepieces for the Only Watch auction, and over the years, we have witnessed some very exquisite timepieces. This year’s auction will be on 5th November 2023 in Geneva and maybe some of you might be interested in taking part. To learn more about this project, head to https://www.onlywatch.com/theproject and to know more Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy: https://www.mda.org/disease/duchenne-muscular-dystrophy.
This year the collection consists of 62 timepieces and to be honest, all of them are amazing, but I decided to select my top 10 choices which I am going to share with you in this article. I have to say that it was a very difficult task to select just 10 and while some of you may think that my 10 may not be the best, these were the ones spoke to me the most, so here you go:
1) Angelus X Chateau Angelus
This Chronodate Gold has been inspired from one of the greatest Bordeaux wine, Chateau Angelus with a unique dial that has been made from freeze-dried wine lees. This gives the dial its texture and colour. You will notice the applied red-gold bell at the 6 o’clock position which represents the Chateau’s bell and signifies the inspiration behind the colour of the watch. This 42.5mm 18k red gold timepiece is outrightly my favourite of the collection. The watch comes with the Angelus calibre A-500 equipped with 60 hours power reserve and the striking dial is matched with a black alligator leather strap that has burgundy lining and 18k red-gold folding clasp. This is valued at approximately between CHF 50,000 – 60,000.
2) Audemars Piguet
This is the Royal Oak flying tourbillon that comes in a white ceramic case and matching bracelet. Of course, the highlight is the visually attractive open work. A contrast is provided in the form of the blue main plate and bridges, the blue stands out in the whole white background that is the case. This timepiece is powered by the self-winding manufacture calibre 2972 with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is estimated to fetch between CHF 300,000 – 350,000.
3) Bvlgari
Of course, Bvlgari went with the popular Octo Finissimo model but added a twist to it as it is for the Only Watch auction. The 40mm titanium case and bracelet is covered with green-hued marble and the natural texture of the marble provides a good contrast for the gold-plated applied indices as well as hands. The overall design and visual is a treat for the eyes. Bvlgari went with the BLV268 movement which happens to the world’s thinnest that has a tourbillon and special ball-bearing system. The Tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock position within the marble dial which adds to the allure of the look. Value estimated around CHF 150,000 – 250,000.
4) Barbier-Mueller
This 41mm platinum model from Barbier-Mueller is called the Mosaique II, which is an absolute masterclass in terms of craftmanship and design. The highlight of the watch is the mosaic lotus that is made of stones. This design is the fruit of 1000 hours of work, and the movement is special as it is the F.P. Journe manual calibre 1304 with approximately 56 hours of power reserve. This watch is expected to be around CNF 150,000 – 250,000.
5) Frederique Constant X Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
What can I say about this one, its simply sophistication of the highest level. The collaboration resulted in this timepiece that combines the Frederique Constant Tourbillon with Christian’s smallest planetarium in a watch. Even with a lot happening on the dial, it manages to look elegant – the blue dial in the platinum case just makes it so. This watch consists of the FC-988 in-house automatic calibre which has a power reserve of 35 hours. The platinum case is supplemented by the presence of the blue alligator leather strap with the matte finished folding buckle. Estimated between CHF 90,000 – 110,000
6) Gerald Genta
The first watch with the Gerald Genta name on it goes back to its roots where the Picasso of Watchmaking was one of the pioneers for combining cartoon characters with watches that has high complications. That fun element has been brought here in the form of Mickey Mouse holding a cake and celebrating Disney’s 100th year anniversary as well as the 50th anniversary of when Gerald Genta created his first watch under his name. The timepiece comes with the signature Gerald Genta octagonal design and this one possesses the new calibre CG-001 with a power reserve of 80 hours. Yes, the dial is the standout factor where the enameled figure of Mickey Mouse points his arm around indicating the minutes. The watch comes with a jump-hour complication along with an on-demand minute-repeater chiming function. Valued at CHF 350,000 – 500,000.
7) Girard-Perregaux
This is the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch edition which is part of their bridges collection. It has a 45mm dial made of sand-blasted 18K pink gold that comes with twin barrels and a silicium blade that buckles back and forth. This is a statement piece in terms of overall design, precious metal used and COSC-certified. Apart from the accuracy that the watch has, it offers a power reserve of 7 days that is due to the hand-mechanical movement GP09200-2196. The pink gold open worked dial is matched with a black rubber strap that has a fabric effect with pink gold triple folding buckle. This estimated to be CHF 140,000 – 220,000.
8) Laurent Ferrier
The idea with this timepiece was to reflect on the brand’s history, it’s history with motor racing, especially the 24 hours of Le Mans. The whole design of the dial with the charcoal grey colour represents the asphalt, the outer ring of the dial with alternating yellow and blue represents the speedbumps outlining the bends in a racetrack, and finally the white seconds dial with the OW indication representing the finish line. This does explain why this model is called Sport Auto “On Track”. This is probably one of the simpler and more elegant pieces of the Only Watch 2023 collection, but does have some history as well as story riding behind it. The dial measures 41.5mm, made of titanium and coupled with an integrated bracelet. The movement, LF270.01 is self-winding and offers 72 hours of power reserve. Rated to be between CHF 55,000 – 85,000.
9) Maurice Lacroix
The model is known as Masterpiece Only Watch 2023 and it’s an out & out attractive watch with its palette of colours. The titanium dial is 43mm and features an in-house skeleton movement (ML330) coming with the rainbow plate. Pairing that dial with a grey nylon strap does give it a sporty look, but something you can also wear as a dress watch. The grey colour of the strap does bring out the colourfulness of the dial. Estimated between CHF 25,000 – 35,000.
10) Tag Heuer
The Monaco Split-Second Only Watch is revolutionary timepiece that was developed over 2 years and is not only a part of the classy Monaco collection, but is also inspired by the original 1969 model. This timepiece comes with a texturized titanium dial and crown in addition to the sapphire crystal as well as cashback. The most striking part if the sapphire dial with the smaller dials suspended using titanium bridges. This is finished off with a calf-skin strap with red stitching that completes the sports look that the Monaco collection are known for. This watch is powered by the Tag Heuer calibre TH81-00 which comes with the automatic split-seconds and has 65 hours of power reserve.
So, there you go, these are my top 10 pieces, what’s your favourite from my top 10 and if you have checked out the Only Watch 2023 collection, what’s your top 5 or top 10? You can check out some more of the 2023 collection in the picture below:
Have fun browsing the collection: https://www.onlywatch.com/2023collection!
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