Patek Philippe’s debuts at Watches and Wonders Geneva held during April 1st – April 7th, 2025, were extremely impressive. They unveiled fourteen watches and one grand complication desk clock. The watches comprised of models in the brand’s grand complications, complications, Calatrava, Twenty~4, Cubitus, and Nautilus collections. They included new variations of existing models, such as the Split-Seconds Chronograph Reference 5370R-001, and new models, such as the Cubitus Reference 7128/1G-001 and Reference 7128/1R-001 (medium size models).
We take a close look at four completely new models. They include:
Quadruple Complication with minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar Reference 5308G-001. The 5308 first made its debut at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition held in Tokyo in 2023.
Calatrava 8 Days Reference 5328G-001. A technical wonder. This model belongs to the Calatrava family and falls in the Complications category in Patek Philippe’s world.
Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar Reference 7340/1R. This model belongs to the Twenty~4 family and falls in the Grand Complications category in Patek Philippe’s world. It is the first ever complication in the Twenty~4 family.
Calatrava Reference 6196P-001 (header image). An icon returns.
Quadruple Complication with minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar Reference 5308G-001
Functions and Operation
Central hours and minutes. Small seconds and moon phase display at 6 o’clock. Day / night indicated in an aperture at 9 o’clock. Crown at 3 o’clock for winding and setting the time.
Minute repeater with chime on two classic gongs. Activated by a slide on the left side of the case.
Instantaneous perpetual calendar: Day, date, and month displayed in apertures arranged in an arc top part of dial. Leap year indicated in an aperture at 3 o’clock. Correctors for day, date, month and year, and moon phase on the top and bottom of the case.
Split-seconds monopusher chronograph. Central chronograph hand is parked (approx.) between 4 and 5 o’clock, and split-seconds hand is parked (approx.) between 7 and 8 o’clock. 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock. 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock. Pusher at 2 o’clock for start, stop, and reset of chronograph. Pusher at 4 o’clock for split-seconds hand.
Dial
Sunburst ice blue dial is made from an 18K gold dial plate. Faceted dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands are made from blue metallised white gold. Faceted baton-shaped applied hour-markers are made from blue metallised white gold.
Movement
Powered by calibre R CHR 27 PS QI, an automatic movement with an off-centre platinum mini rotor. Diameter: 32 mm. Thickness: 12.28 mm. Components: 799. Jewels: 67. Frequency: 21,600 vph or 3 Hz. Power reserve with the chronograph disengaged: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours.
This new calibre highlights several innovations. They include two new patents optimizing energy management.
“The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures that the disks pass in 30 milliseconds over the three day-date-month apertures arranged along an arc.”
“Split-seconds chronograph with patented isolation mechanism. Anti-backlash clutch wheel that eliminates chronograph friction.”
Case
Made from 18K white gold, fully polished. Skeletonised lugs. Diameter: 42 mm. Thickness: 17.71 mm. Case is humidity and dust protected only, and not water resistant. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal casebacks are provided. Watch comes with a shiny navy-blue alligator leather strap fitted to a new patented triple-blade fold-over clasp made from white gold.
Our Thoughts
Grand complications such as Reference 5308G-001 are a speciality of Patek Philippe. Two of the most difficult horological complications to master – the minute repeater and split-seconds chronograph – united in a single watch with an instantaneous perpetual calendar! Their ability to churn out such grand complications year after year is no ordinary feat. The Reference 5308G-001 serves as a reminder why Patek Philippe is such a phenomenal watchmaker.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 1,050,000 / United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED): 4,672,500
Calatrava 8 Days Reference 5328G-001
Functions and Operation
Central hours and minutes. Small seconds at 6 o’clock. Stop seconds. Instantaneous day in aperture and instantaneous date by hand at 6 o’clock. Power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Crown at 3 o’clock for winding and setting the time. Correctors for date and day on the bottom right side of the case.
Dial
Blue dial made from brass with a textured pattern and a black-gradient rim. Syringe-shaped hour and minute hands made from white gold and filled with white luminescent material. Applied Arabic numerals made from white gold and filled with white luminescent material. The red accents – on the power reserve indicator and the “1” on the day-date-small seconds subdial – contrast beautifully with the textured blue dial.
Movement
Powered by calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, a manually wound movement. Diameter: 32 mm. Thickness: 5.05 mm. Components: 256. Jewels: 28. Frequency: 28,800 vph or 4 Hz. Power reserve: min. 192 hours or 8 days.
“The new manually wound 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J calibre combines a classic construction with several technical innovations, including a Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®. The two series-coupled barrels guarantee perfectly accurate operation for a full eight days, with a ninth “reserve” day displayed in red on the indicator. The day-date displays jump instantaneously at midnight.”
Case
Made from 18K white gold. The circumference of the case band features the “Clous de Paris” or hobnail guilloché pattern. Diameter: 41 mm. Thickness: 10.52 mm. Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 metres. Watch comes with a navy-blue calfskin strap featuring a fabric pattern and cream stitching, fitted to a new patented triple-blade fold-over clasp made from white gold. A grained taupe calfskin strap is also provided.
Our Thoughts
Let us take a moment and see what the Calatrava 8 Days Reference 5328G-001 is all about. Instantaneous jump of the day and date every day. This equates to 14 instantaneous jumps a week. 8 days power reserve. The movement incorporates the Pulsomax® escapement in Silinvar®, a culmination of the brand’s Advanced Research. This watch is a technical wonder, incorporating Patek Philippe’s innovations most other brands dream about. While not classically beautiful, it is a handsome watch with lovely dial and case details, one that I appreciated handling in Geneva.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 60,000 / United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED): 267,000
Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar Reference 7340/1R (two versions – 001 and 010)
Functions and Operation
Central hours and minutes. Moon phase display at 6 o’clock. 24-hour time indication at 9 o’clock.
Perpetual calendar: Day of the week displayed at 9 o’clock. Month and leap year displayed at 3 o’clock. Date displayed at 6 o’clock. Crown at 3 o’clock for winding and setting the time. Correctors for day, date, month and year, and moon phase on the left and right side of the case.
Dial
Version 001 – Silvery dial with a vertical and horizontal satin-finish (“shantung” finish).
Version 010 – Sunburst olive green dial.
Both versions feature rounded baton-shaped hour and minute hands made from rose gold and filled with white luminescent material. Applied numerals made from rose gold and filled with white luminescent material.
Movement
Powered by calibre 240 Q, an ultra-thin automatic movement with an off-centre 22K gold mini rotor. Diameter: 27.50 mm. Thickness: 3.88 mm. Components: 275. Bridges: 8. Jewels: 27. Frequency: 21,600 vph or 3 Hz. Power reserve: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours. Balance: Gyromax®. Balance spring: Spiromax®.
Calibre 240 Q is based on calibre 240, a legendry Patek Philippe calibre. Calibre 240 Q also powers the perpetual calendar References 5327G-001 and 5327R-001. The base calibre 240 powers the Golden Ellipse collection.
Case and Bracelet
Both case and bracelet made from 18K rose gold, fully polished. Diameter: 36 mm. Thickness: 9.95 mm. Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 metres. Bracelet features a rose gold patented fold-over clasp.
Our Thoughts
Two trends I noticed at Watches and Wonders were smaller case sizes and a move towards unisex watches. The Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar Reference 7340/1R adheres to both these trends. The Twenty~4 is a ladies watch collection, yet the senior Patek Philippe staff assured me this is a unisex watch. After trying it on, I was convinced. It is a beautiful interpretation of a slim and elegant perpetual calendar watch with an integrated bracelet, and joins the brand’s impressive lineup of perpetual calendars.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 102,000 / United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED): 453,900
Calatrava Reference 6196P-001
Functions and Operation
Central hours and minutes. Small seconds at 6 o’clock. Stop seconds. Crown at 3 o’clock for winding and setting the time.
Dial
Rose-gilt opaline or salmon dial. Anthracite coated and faceted dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands made from white gold. Anthracite coated “obus”- style applied hour-markers are made from white gold.
Movement
Powered by calibre 30-255 PS, a manually wound movement. Diameter: 31 mm. Thickness: 2.55 mm. Components: 164. Jewels: 27. Frequency: 28,800 vph or 4 Hz. Power reserve: min. 65 hours.
Calibre 30-255 PS debuted in Calatrava References 6119G-001 and 6119R-001.
Case
Made from platinum, polished with satin-finished flanks. The discreet diamond set on the case at 6 o’clock denotes it is made from platinum (a Patek Philippe feature). Diameter: 38 mm. Thickness: 9.33 mm. Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 metres. Watch comes with a shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap with a prong buckle made from platinum.
Our Thoughts
The Calatrava Reference 6196P-001 was among my favourite watches at Watches and Wonders. I just could not get enough of it. When Patek Philippe discontinued the Calatrava Reference 5196 a few years ago, I knew it was a matter of time before they unveiled the 6196. They have chosen to launch it in platinum and have been very quiet about it. The latter possibly because they have several other novelties, and they just launched the new Cubitus collection in October last year.
I know it is inevitable before a rose gold, white gold, and a possible yellow gold version joins the 6196 lineup. The 6196P is a direct descendent of the brand’s Reference 96 (circa 1930’s – 1940’s), among the most important watches of all time. The 6196P is the purest expression of a modern three-hand watch by Patek Philippe and destined to become a modern icon. It is my kind of watch, and the future rose gold, or yellow gold version is the one I aspire to own.
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 40,000 / United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED): 178,000
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