A. Lange & Söhne (Lange) has introduced the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold. It joins the Zeitwerk Date in white gold that debuted in 2019. Both are part of the brand’s Zeitwerk collection.
Key Features
Image: “In the interest of optimised, logical legibility, the two apertures for the prominent hour and minute numerals are arranged from left to right on the centre axis of the dial. The indication is a paragon of precision: within a fraction of a second, the patented jumping numerals mechanism switches the numeral discs – precisely 1,440 times throughout the day.”
Functions and Operation
Hours and minutes displayed “digital style” via a jumping numerals display.
Subsidiary seconds with a stop seconds function at 6 o’clock.
Date indicated via a “precisely switching ring date display” on outer dial.
UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock.
Crown at 2 o’clock for winding and time setting. Pusher at 4 o’clock for setting the hour display. Pusher at 8 o’clock for setting the date display.
“The hour display can be advanced separately with the pusher at 4 o’clock. To enable the correction independently of the switching cycles of the movement, a clutch uncouples the hour ring from the jumping numerals mechanism with every actuation of the pusher. Similar to the date function, the switching impulse is generated when the pusher is released.”
Dial
Image: Notice the time bridge. “It is part of the movement and frames the time indication with the subsidiary seconds dial, thus creating an instantly noticeable connection between the aesthetic appeal of the exterior and the interior mechanics.” Notice the date ring. “A small colour segment on a ring beneath the date ring performs one step exactly at midnight.”
Grey-coloured dial is made from 925 silver. Rhodium-finished time bridge is made from German silver. Hands are made from 750 gold. Date ring is made from printed glass. Current date appears in red.
Movement
Image: A highly complex and beautiful finished movement. Notice the hand-engraved balance cock, escape-wheel cock, and free-sprung balance-wheel with eccentric poising weights. The position of the winding crown at 2 o’clock makes the watch more comfortable on the wrist. It also allows the winding mechanism to bypass the jumping numerals mechanism.
Powered by Lange manufacture calibre L043.8, a manually wound movement that powers the hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with a stop seconds function, instantaneous date, and power-reserve indicator. “Crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three quarter plate made of untreated German silver; balance cock and escape-wheel cock engraved by hand; constant force escapement.”
Diameter: 37 mm. Thickness: 8.90 mm. Parts: 516. Jewels: 70. Screwed gold chatons: 2. Frequency: 18,000 vph or 2.5 Hz. Power reserve: 72 hours.
Lever escapement. Free-sprung and shock-resistant balance wheel with eccentric poising weights. Lange manufactured superior-quality balance spring with balance-spring clamp. The movement features a precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring.
Image: A closer look at the movement. The “delicate constant-force escapement bridge” is an object of beauty. The constant force escapement is below it. Lange manufactures the balance springs itself, a critical component in watchmaking.
“Controlled by a patented constant-force escapement, the tremendous force needed to advance the time indication is delivered by an exceedingly powerful twin mainspring barrel. A fly governor absorbs the surplus energy and protects the entire jumping numerals mechanism. Precisely every 60 seconds, the constant-force escapement provides the switching impulse for the numeral discs. Positioned between mainspring barrel and balance wheel, it makes an important contribution to rate stability by assuring that the balance is powered with a consistent amount of force across the entire power-reserve duration.”
Case
Image: Theatre at midnight. “Precisely at midnight, it puts on an exceptional show. Because then, all three jumping numeral discs and the date ring switch simultaneously. At that moment, a force and precision are at work that you imagine can be felt through the case.” – Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development at Lange.
Case is made from 750 pink gold. Diameter: 44.20 mm. Thickness: 12.30 mm.
Dial and caseback feature a sapphire crystal, with Mohs hardness of 9. Water resistant up to 3 bar or approximately 30 metres. Watch comes with a dark brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap fitted to a prong buckle made from 750 pink gold.
Our Thoughts
As I write about the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold, I have Lange’s 2009/2010 catalogue besides me (I have a few old Lange catalogues, each one a treasure). It has the original Zeitwerk (white gold case, black dial) on the cover. Introduced in 2009, the Zeitwerk – with its “digital style” jumping numerals display – stunned the horological world. It added to the model lineup of a reborn Lange, which included the iconic Lange 1 (1994) and the game-changing Datograph (1999), in addition to other models.
The Zeitwerk evolved from a single model family to one which included the Zeitwerk Decimal Strike (2017), Zeitwerk Date (2019), and Zeitwerk Minute Repeater (2020). The original model itself morphed into the Zeitwerk second generation (2022). Special limited-edition models such as the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, Zeitwerk HONEYGOLD “Lumen,” and Zeitwerk Decimal Strike HONEYGOLD graced the catalogue in the past. The Zeitwerk Date incorporates a unique instantaneous date function to an already complex movement – the kind of horology Lange does best. It will appeal to collectors who (perhaps) find the “regular” Zeitwerk a bit too plain (not me), or those who want to add a second or third Zeitwerk to their collection. The pink gold version will make it popular among collectors who prefer its “warm hue” over white metal (both white gold and platinum).
Image: Big. Bold. Unconventional. Versatile. A wrist presence with few equals.
When I think of the Zeitwerk, I am reminded of two vintage Patek Philippe advertisements I came across on the Instagram page of a renowned watch collector. In one, it features a Golden Ellipse sitting in the rear seat of a chauffeur driven car, and in the other, a Golden Ellipse dining alone in a restaurant. “The exclusive circle of a Patek Philippe” and “Ellipse by Patek Philippe” are the captions on both. Very few watches evoke this kind of an exclusive aura. The Lange 1 and Zeitwerk certainly do so. They belong to a group of watches that transcend the brands that gave birth to them.
Jumping numerals and jump hour watches have been crafted by other brands too – past and present. ANDERSEN Genève, Audemars Piguet, Chopard L.U.C, IWC Schaffhausen, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin come to mind. Yet none of them have the sheer magnificence of the Zeitwerk. There is nothing like it. It belongs in a league of its own. The Zeitwerk Date in pink gold adds to this legacy.
Additional Details
Name: Zeitwerk Date
Reference: 148.033
Price: United Arab Emirates Dirham (AED) 509,000 (includes taxes)
Please visit the Lange website and Instagram page for more information.
Please click here, here, and here to read our Watches and Wonders Geneva coverage on Lange.
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