“Why can’t horology be a little more playful from time to time? In an oh-so-serious industry, Studio Underd0g offers a fresh and playful perspective.”
Studio Underd0g is a British watch brand, founded during the pandemic by Richard Benc. It was officially launched in March 2021. They have introduced the 3rd Generation of the 01 Series models. They include the Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda, and Mint Ch0c Chip.
The 3rd Generation of the 01Series features a few “incremental, but impactful improvements.”
- Its mid-case size has been reduced, resulting in a total thickness of 12.90 mm (from 13.60 mm), making it more wearable.
- Its crown thickness has been increased to ensure smoother winding.
- It has a re-tooled dial, now featuring the “Assembled in Great Britain” mark.
- The caseback’s sapphire crystal size has been increased, providing a better view of its new movement.
Key Features of the 01Series Generation 3 models
Functions
Central hours and minutes.
Central chronograph seconds.
Subdial at 3 o’clock: 30-minute counter.
Subdial at 9 o’clock: Small seconds.
Dial Versions
Watermel0n (Gen3) is inspired by a watermelon.
Desert Sky (Gen3) is inspired by a pair of sneakers.
Go0fy Panda (Gen3) is the brand’s interpretation of a traditional panda dial. The green tips on the central chronograph seconds hand and 30-minute counter hand are inspired by the bamboo shoot, “a panda’s favorite delicacy!”
Mint Ch0c Chip (Gen3) is inspired by mint chocolate chip ice cream. This flavour was invented by a student in England in 1973.
All four versions feature a 2-layer dial. A satin sandblasted base-dial, and a coarse dégradé top-dial.
The hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova® C3.
The 30-minute counter subdial at 3 o’clock is considerable larger than the small second subdial at 9 o’clock.
“Studio Underd0g” and “Bicompax ST-1901” dominate the top portion of the dial. “Assembled in Great Britan” is displayed bottom portion of the dial.
The inner dial features 11 black hour-markers. Shaped like watermelon seeds (my guess) on the Watermel0n version, round on both the Desert Sky and Go0fy Panda versions, and chocolate chip pieces (my guess) on the Ch0c Chip version.
The outer dial features a tachymeter scale.
Movement
Powered by ST-1901B, a bespoke manual-winding column wheel chronograph movement from Seagull, “China’s biggest industrial watch and movement manufacturer.” Seagull is based in Tianjin, China.
It drives the hours, minutes, small-seconds, central chronograph seconds, and 30-minute counter.
Diameter: 31.30 mm. Height: 6.25 mm. Jewels: 21. According to online sources.
Frequency: 21,600 vph or 3 Hz.
Power reserve: 50 hours (chronograph off). 45 hours (chronograph on).
Accuracy: -10 / +15 seconds per day – regulated in Great Britain.
Seagull published a notice in April 2024 outlining changes to the supply of their ST-19 series movements. The most significant being a minimum order quantity of 10000 pieces, resulting in many brands deciding to stop using the ST-19 calibre. Studio Underd0g managed to sign an exclusive contract with Seagull, enabling them to provide a bespoke version of the manual-winding column wheel chronograph movement: ST-1901B. The ST-1901B was “developed in partnership with Seagull.” Its features include “an all black main plate which beautifully frames the bridges, wheels and balance, as well as a silver swan neck regulator to allow for more precise regulation.”
Case and Strap
3-part case made from 316L stainless steel.
Case diameter: 38.50 mm. Thickness: 12.90 mm.
Lug width: 20 mm. Lug to lug: 44.50 mm.
Dial and caseback feature a sapphire crystal.
Water resistant up to 5 ATM.
All 4 versions have an Italian Saffiano leather strap provided by The Strap Tailor.
They feature a quick-release spring bar. The straps are attached to a signed buckle, made from 316L stainless steel.
Our Thoughts
Studio Underd0g has taken the watch collecting community by storm. GBP 550 gets you a great looking watch with a playful twist. Fresh fruit, sneakers, panda and bamboo shoot, and ice cream. Take your pick. They feature a column wheel chronograph movement, an aspect that might mean a great deal for beginner collectors.
These watches are welcome in any collection, from beginner to most sophisticated. They add colour and playfulness and remind us not to take ourselves too seriously. My personal favorite is Desert Sky.
Additional Details
Name: Studio Underd0g Watermel0n (Gen3)
Price: Great Britain Pounds (GBP) 550
Name: Studio Underd0g Desert Sky (Gen3)
Price: Great Britain Pounds (GBP) 550
Name: Studio Underd0g Go0fy Panda (Gen3)
Price: Great Britain Pounds (GBP) 550
Name: Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip (Gen3)
Price: Great Britain Pounds (GBP) 550
Please visit the Studio Underd0g website for more information and ordering details. Presently all 4 models are sold out. Please register for their next drop.
Studio Underd0g watches are Assembled in Great Britain. They undergo a complete quality control (QC) inspection that includes demagnetisation, accuracy and rate review (3 positions), and regulation performed by Horologium, a Berkshire, UK based company that provides maintenance, services, and repairs for watches. A report card for the QC inspection is provided with each watch.
