French independent watch brand – AWAKE – introduces four new Métiers d’Art watches

They highlight “the ancestral art of Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer.” The versions include “Outre Bleu,” “Lava,” “Emerald,” and Amethyst.” They are the brand's first permanent collection.

AWAKE, a French independent watch brand, has introduced the Sơn Mài Collection. These four new Métiers d’Art watches highlight the ancestral art of Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer.”  The dials are crafted using the centuries-old technique of  ‘Sơn Mài’  the Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer, magnified by the subtle application of pure silver leaf.” 

The versions include Silver Leaf “Outre Bleu,” Silver Leaf “Lava,” Silver Leaf “Emerald,” and Silver Leaf “Amethyst.”

AWAKE celebrates its fifth anniversary with the Sơn Mài collection. It is the French brand’s first permanent collection, and a transition to Swiss Made, by incorporating movements from La Joux-Perret.

AWAKE and Lilian Thibault

Image: Lilian Thibault.

“The watch is not only a tool for measuring Time, it reminds us of its constant evolution and provisional nature. Defying the ephemeral and the disposable, the watch embodies passion and excellence more than ever.” – Lilian Thibault  

“AWAKE was born in 2019 with the ambition of combining passions and personal values in a project expressing the vision of its founder (Lilian Thibault). Since its creation, the brand has embodied a pioneering, avant-garde and exemplary approach to the watchmaking industry, with a mission to draw attention to humanity’s most precious asset: the Earth, in all its beauty and fragility. This mission is reflected in the brand’s name: AWAKE, a verb meaning to awaken someone to something, to make them aware of it

Since then, Lilian has surrounded himself with like-minded collaborators and partners to bring this adventure to life. He enjoys meeting those who aspire to make things happen, who take risks and push the limits to achieve their ambitions. Together, they design watches using innovative materials that preserve our resources, and artisanal techniques inspired by the beauty of nature that surrounds us, to give time and the object that embodies it a new meaning.”

Key Features

“The Sơn Mài collection was conceived as an invitation to delve into Vietnam’s cultural heritage and traditional values through dials crafted to endure for generations, imbued with the memory and emotion of encounters and journeys.” – Lilian Thibault

Functions

Image: “Emerald.”

Central hours, minutes, and seconds.

Stop-second function (according to La Joux-Perret website).

Dial

Handcrafted dials “using two ancestral Vietnamese techniques: “Sơn Mài” sanded lacquer and pure silver leaf gilding.”

Image: From top: “Lava,” “Outre Bleu,” “Amethyst,” and “Emerald.”

Sơn Mài

“AWAKE has embraced a technique never before used in watchmaking for its dials: Sơn Mài, or Vietnamese sanded lacquer. This ancient art involves meticulously layering and polishing coats of natural lacquer to achieve a lustrous, mirror-like finish. Unlike the lacquering techniques of China and Japan, Vietnamese artisans incorporate materials such as crushed eggshells, gold or silver leaf, and mother-of-pearl to add texture and depth. The result is a stunning visual effect that elevates Vietnamese lacquerware to an unparalleled level of prestige.

Sơn Mài is one of Vietnam’s oldest and most iconic traditional arts. It begins with the careful extraction of sap from the Rhus verniciflua tree, which grows in northern Vietnam and is renowned for producing the finest and most radiant lacquer. Each tree, after a decade of growth, yields a mere 200 ml of sap, harvested only during the early mornings of June and July. Once collected, the sap is processed to remove moisture and impurities, then filtered and dehydrated to create a transparent lacquer. Natural pigments are added to produce a range of vibrant shades, resulting in a lacquer known for its protective qualities and complex, glossy surfaces. Over the past century, Sơn Mài has evolved into a refined art form, celebrated for its timeless beauty.”

Silver-Leaf Gilding

Image: Silver Leaf application.

“To infuse texture and depth into its creations, AWAKE has integrated pure silver leaf into the dial base—a meticulous and delicate process that lends the dials a striking visual allure.

Each piece undergoes a lengthy and rigorous manufacturing journey. First, a base coat of lacquer is applied, dried, and then sanded and polished to achieve a flawlessly smooth surface. The silver leaves are then meticulously placed and fixed with a brush, creating extraordinary texture and relief. Next, natural colour pigments are airbrushed on, enhancing the visual impact. A dozen coats of lacquer follow, adding protection, shine, and resilience, before reaching the final polishing stage. This intricate process, which can span several weeks, demands exceptional precision and unwavering attention to detail, ensuring that every dial in the Sơn Mài collection becomes a captivating work of art of the highest quality.”

Hanoia atelier

From left: Thibaut Sacre, Director of Sales and Business Development at AWAKE. Mr. TI, Master Lacquerer. Lilian Thibault, CEO at AWAKE.

Image: Quality control.

“AWAKE has found the perfect partner to bring the traditional art of Sơn Mài into its watches: Hanoia, Vietnam’s most prestigious lacquerware atelier. Established in Hanoi in 1997, Hanoia is home to about twenty master lacquerers—dedicated artisans and true custodians of this ancient craft. Each one specializes in a different, meticulous stage of the process, demonstrating exceptional precision, skill, and a profound respect for the Sơn Mài tradition.”

Dial Versions

Silver Leaf “Outre Bleu”

“This deep blue dial, named Outre Bleu (‘Beyond Blue’) in homage to artist P. Soulages’s Outre Noir, radiates calm, stability, and tranquillity. Often associated with well-being and spirituality, its serene hue fosters a sense of confidence, inviting reflection and reverie. A favoured colour in many Western cultures, it embodies serenity and wisdom.”

Silver Leaf “Lava”

“The intense red of this dial is both powerful and vibrant, offering warm reflections that stir dynamic emotions. Symbolizing strength, energy, and passion, its vibrant red sparks enthusiasm and will scarcely risk going unnoticed.”

Silver Leaf “Emerald”

“Characterized by fresh, harmonious shades of green, this dial evokes a feeling of calm and renewal. As a symbol of life and prosperity, its natural green hues suggest a connection with nature, creating a soothing effect that is ideal for bringing harmony to body and mind.”

Silver Leaf “Amethyst”

Featuring an intense, deep purple, this dial carries the mystique of precious objects and mystical concepts. The colour, positioned between the peacefulness of blue and the passion of red, offers a sensation of calm and voluptuousness, encapsulating a balance between tranquillity and intensity.”

Hands, Indexes, and Luminescence

Image: “Outre Bleu” lume shot showing the unique luminescence.

The hour, minute and twelve indexes feature Super-LumiNova® BGW9, done differently.

“Departing from traditional construction methods, where the luminescent coating is applied on top, AWAKE’s hands and indexes are fashioned from a thin, solid base of Super-LumiNova® BGW9, delicately machined and then capped with a faceted, polished steel overlay. This innovative design creates a chiaroscuro-inspired backlighting effect, combining luxury, elegance, and perfect legibility during the day, while preserving the dial’s lacquered beauty. In the dark, it reveals a captivating spectacle: the striking details and reflections of the silver leaf, brought to life by the watch’s masterful use of luminescence.”

Case and Strap

Made from recycled 316L stainless steel.

Diameter: 39 mm. Thickness: 11.80 mm with crystal and 10.90 without crystal.

Lug to lug distance: 45.60 mm. Lug width: 20 mm.

Dial side features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

Image: “Amethyst.”

Screw-in caseback features a sapphire crystal.

Crown at 3 o’clock.

Water resistant up to 5 ATM or 50 metres.

Strap: DELUGS for AWAKE. DELUGS is a Singaporean company. The straps are made from nubuck leather and are grey rubber-lined and stitched. Straps are attached to a recycled 316L stainless steel pin buckle.

Image: DELUGS for AWAKE strap with recycled 316L stainless steel pin buckle.

Movement

Image: The La Joux-Perret G101 is a tried and tested dependable movement, which will provide a stress free ownership experience.

Powered by La Joux-Perret G101, a Swiss Made automatic movement. It drives the hours, minutes, seconds, and stop-second function.

Diameter: 25.60 mm. Thickness: 4.45 mm. Frequency: 28,800 vph or 4 Hz. (According to the La Joux Perret website).

Power reserve: 68 hours.

Movement decoration: The customised automatic winding rotor features “alternating hollows and reliefs with brushed, bead-blasted and polished finishes.”

Our Thoughts

Image: “Lava” lume shot. One of my favourites.

Métiers d’Art watches are usually expensive, and names like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin come to mind. AWAKE has crafted Métiers d’Art dials using two ancestral Vietnamese techniques, and has made them affordable. AWAKE are now using Swiss Made movements from La Joux-Perret, dependable and easily serviceable by competent watchmakers worldwide. The Sơn Mài Collection proves that horology does not have to be expensive to be meaningful, beautiful, and interesting. These watches are enjoyable conversation starters at watch GTGs, and a welcome addition in any collection.

Image: “Outre Bleu” lume shot. Also one of my favourites.

Lilian Thibault deserves huge credit for creating these watches, which have bridged a cultural divide from Europe to Vietnam. My favourite is the “Outre Bleu” and “Lava.”

Additional Details

Name: Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf “Outre Bleu”

Name: Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf “Lava”

Name: Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf “Emerald”

Name: Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf “Amethyst”

Price (all four versions): Euro (EUR): 1950 / United States Dollar (USD): 2150 / Great Britan Pounds (GBP): 1650 / Swiss Franc (CHF): 1850. Excluding taxes and shipping.

Name: Sơn Mài – Collectors set

Price: Euro (EUR): 9360. Including taxes.

“The first 10 copies of the Sơn Mài collection will be available only in the form of a luxurious collector’s box set numbered from 01 to 10. 

This collector’s box, covered in an intense blue Vietnamese lacquer and with high-end finishes, was designed to provide even more pleasure and exclusivity to the most passionate among you!

Each box contains the 4 versions of the Sơn Mài collection, as well as a collector’s fountain pen specially developed for this occasion, also handmade in the same workshops using the two artistic crafts of Vietnamese sanded lacquer and pure silver leaf gilding. Going beyond the stage of a simple object, this pen has a symbolic significance and will accompany you in the important moments of your life, connecting you to the magic of workshops and things made to last…”

Warranty: 3 years international warranty. All watches come with a Watch Certificate digital passport for AWAKE.

Please visit the AWAKE website and Instagram page for more information and ordering information.

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