De Bethune introduces a new DB25GMT Starry Varius
This technically sophisticated and innovative dual time watch is now available in rose gold.
De Bethune has introduced a latest version of the DB25GMT Starry Varius, now featuring a case and hour and minute hands made from rose gold. The DB25GMT Starry Varius was first introduced in 2021 in a titanium case.
The DB25GMT Starry Varius features a technically sophisticated and innovative dual time function.
Left image: De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius in titanium. Launched in 2021, it was affectionately referred to as the little sister of the DB25 World Traveller, introduced in 2016. Right image: Dial closeup.
Key Features of the DB25GMT Starry Varius in rose gold
Left image: De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius in rose gold. The rose gold case and hands contrast superbly with the blue, golden, and silver accents of the artistic dial. Right image: The microsphere is 50% 5N rose gold and 50% blued steel. The hours of the 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) is indicated by the microsphere, and it gradually turns at 6 AM and 6 PM, to mark a change from night to day, and day to night.
Functions and Operations
Hours and minutes – indicated by the microsphere on the 24-hour disc. (Home or reference time.)
Second time zone (GMT) – indicated by the central hour and minute hands. The hour hand is set to the second time zone, and minute hand remains synched with the home or reference time.
Day / Night indicator – indicated by the microsphere’s two halves, blue and pink. “It gradually turns at 6am and 6pm, thereby imitating sunrise and sunset.”
Jumping date – indicated by the central date hand.
The crown at 3 o’clock is for winding the watch and setting the time – home or reference time and second time zone (GMT). 3 positions. “Secure bidirectional systems.”
A corrector at 6 o’clock is for setting the date (clockwise).
“Starting from the centre, the dial indicates the date on the first disc with the help of its jumping date hand, which can be adjusted via a corrector at 6 o’clock. The hours of the first 24-hour time zone (home or reference time) are marked by the microsphere in a mysterious manner, as it appears to be floating weightless in its corridor. This function can be set in both directions (clockwise / counterclockwise) via the crown. Local time, i.e., the second time zone, is indicated by the golden hands whose curvature follows the relief of the dial. The minutes hand naturally remains coordinated with the reference time, while the hours hand indicates the local time thanks to the second time zone. Local time can also be set by the crown, in both directions.”
Dial
It features a 2-part central dial. Features a “blue polished titanium with white gold pins / radiant silver microlight decoration with a sunburst insert in polished rose gold.”
“In the centre of the curved dial, De Bethune offers us a poetic vision of our sky by day and by night. A polished pink gold sun in the centre of a microlight shines over half the disc, while the celestial vault is delicately outlined on the blued polished titanium section. The vision provided is of a miniature night sky, dotted with a multitude of small white gold pins delicately and individually driven into a blued titanium dial. The Milky Way is then hand-crafted using micro laser strokes and 24-carat gold leaf.”
Curved date ring is made from blued titanium. Gold transfer Arabic numerals and dots.
Silver colour 24-hour sub dial features two tone decal Arabic numerals. 7 – 17 in golden (daylight) and 19 – 5 in dark blue (night). 6 and 18 are in white with a black border, as this is when the microsphere turns, indicating a change from night to day, and day to night.
Silver colour curved hour ring features Arabic numerals.
Curved minute ring is made from rose gold. Thick blued dots (above each of the 12 Arabic numerals on the hour ring) represent hours, and thin blued dots represent minutes. Graduated in increments of 5 minutes each.
Curved hour and minute hands are made from hand-polished rose gold.
Jumping date is hand-polished flamed-blued with a polished tip.
Microsphere Day / Night indicator is made from 5N rose gold and blued steel. It is a similar decoration and technique used in the brand’s spherical moon phase. De Bethune Patent (2004).
Movement, Innovations, Patents, and Finishings
Image: Calibre DB2507 on the DB25GMT Starry Varius in titanium. Same calibre powers the new rose gold version. A futuristic looking haute-horology movement unlike no other. Notice the “Côtes De Bethune” microlight decoration on its centre.
Powered by DB2507 a mechanical hand-wound movement designed, developed, and crafted by De Bethune. It drives the hours and minutes, second time zone (GMT), Day / Night indicator, and jumping date.
Diameter 30 mm.
Parts 368. Jewels 40.
Frequency 28,800 vph or 4 Hz.
Power reserve 5 days or 120 hours, “ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel.” De Bethune Innovation (2004).
Titanium balance wheel featuring white gold inserts, which is optimized for temperature differences and air penetration. De Bethune Patent (2016).
“De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve. De Bethune Patent (2006).
Silicon escape wheel.
Triple para-chute shock-absorbing system. De Bethune Innovation (2005).
Curved plate cover is made from mirror-polished steel.
Barrel bridge cover is made from mirror-polished steel, and features “Côtes De Bethune” microlight decoration in its centre. De Bethune Innovation (2016).
Movement features extensive hand finishing and decoration such as hand snailed barrels and hand-polished chamfered steel parts.
Case, Strap, and Buckle
Case is made from 5N rose gold.
Diameter 42 mm. Thickness 11.80 mm.
Case features integrated hollow lugs.
Dial side features a sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Caseback is made from 5N rose gold and features a sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness) with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Water resistant up to 3 ATM or 30 metres.
Watch comes with an extra-supple alligator leather strap with alligator lining. It is attached to a pin buckle made of 5N rose gold. (The header image features a blue fabric strap.)
Our Thoughts
The avant-garde DB25GMT Starry Varius is a unique interpretation of a dual time function. It is drop dead gorgeous in its new rose gold avatar. The rose gold case and hands contrast superbly with the blue, golden, and silver accents of the artistic dial.
Once you consider its three De Bethune Innovations and three De Bethune Patents, its CHF 110,000 price almost seems like a bargain. Very few watch brands can craft watches that are gorgeous, technically sophisticated, and feature innovations and patents, all in the same watch. Often there is a compromise somewhere. Not with De Bethune. We cannot wait to see this beauty (and other De Bethune watches) in the flesh and do a hands-on review.
Additional Details
Name: De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius
Reference: DB25VGR
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 110,000 (not including VAT)
Not a limited edition, but production will be limited. The brand crafts a few hundred pieces a year. Expect a long wait.
Please visit the De Bethune website and Instagram page for further information.
In Dubai, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is an Authorised Retailer for the brand.
We featured the De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite in September. Please read here.
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