Bvlgari And MB&F collaborate to unveil the sensational new Serpenti

Bvlgari and MB&F have collaborated to unveil the sensational new Serpenti. The Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti is the second collaboration between two friends: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Director of Watchmaking Creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, Founder and Creative Director of MB&F.

Left: Maximilian Büsser. Right: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Two friends. Incredible talents.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by The Cornea Impression (@thecorneaimpression)

The Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti is Fabrizio’s and Max’s second collaboration. Left: PVD-coated stainless steel case with red domes. Middle: 18K rose gold case with green domes. Right: Grade 5 titanium case with blue domes.

In 2021, the two friends collaborated on the “MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra. This collaboration brought the exuberant, colourful world of Bvlgari jewellery into MB&F’s Legacy Machines. After the success of that collaboration, the two friends naturally wondered, what next?”Image: Fabrizio’s and Max’s first collaboration in 2021, the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra.

For the Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti, both Fabrizio and Max attempted to reinterpret the Serpenti, “which first appeared in Bvlgari’s creations in 1948 – bringing it into the very mechanical universe of MB&F haute-horlogerie.”The Serpenti is an icon of Italian design since 1948. Image: Serpenti Tubogas Bracelet. (Image credit: Bvlgari website.)

“Reimagining Serpenti – an emblem of eternal rebirth and bold metamorphosis – into a Horological Machine required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception, but also in terms of case design and manufacturing. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti represents a unique creation, born from an inspired encounter and a shared vision, where calibre and design seamlessly enhance one another.”

Image: The Sepenti reimagined by Bvlgari and MB&F.

Design

Images: Sketches.

“According to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the design aspects “were a pleasure to create,” perhaps giving the impression that this part of the process was relatively easy – but the hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3d-printed models attest otherwise. Contrary to a classic round case, which offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti could not be more complicated. Like an automobile, the view is radically different depending on whether you admire it from the front, the side, the top, the back… and all those views must be equally satisfying. Like a carefully-balanced equation with multiple variables, any adjustment to a particular angle or curve, although improving a certain view, can potentially destroy another. This resulted in countless iterations of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti design.”

Key Features

Functions

Hours, Minutes, and Power Reserve Indicator.

Image: Hours dome on the left. Minutes dome on the right. Indexes and hour-markers are coated with hand-applied Super-LumiNova. Notice both brands’ name in their respective fonts.

Hours displayed on left dome. The aluminium dome rotates once every 12 hours.

Minutes displayed on right dome. The aluminium dome rotates once every 60 minutes.

Image: Front and caseback view of MB&F’s in-house manual winding movement. Notice the power reserve indicator on the top left (bottom right when worn).

Power reserve indicator is on the back of the movement, “thanks to dedicated hand and a metallisation on the case back sapphire crystal.”

Case, Dial, and Bracelet

Three editions.

Grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes.

Image: The crown at 11 o’clock (left) is for manual winding, and at 1 o’clock (right) is for setting the time.

Comes with a hand-stitched blue rubber strap featuring a velcro system and an ardillon buckle made from grade 5 titanium.

18K rose gold case with green hour and minute domes or “piercing green eyes.” 

Image: Notice the bespoke flying 14 mm balance wheel.

Comes with a hand-stitched green rubber strap featuring a velcro system and an ardillon buckle made from 18K rose gold.

Black PVD-coated stainless steel case with red hour and minute domes, “comes alive with vibrant red eyes.”

Image: Automotive vibes, resembling the rear window of a supercar with a view of its engine.

Comes with a hand-stitched black rubber strap featuring a velcro system and an ardillon buckle made from grade 5 titanium.

All other features are the same for all three editions.

Dimensions: Length 53 mm * Width 39 mm * Height 13 mm.

The open-case design showcases “the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator.”

The case features 5 sapphire crystals, each “treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides.”Image: Notice the complexity of the case and sapphire crystals.

The indexes and hour-markers are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Water resistant up to 3 ATM / 30 metres / 90 feet.

Crown at 11 o’clock (left side) is for manual winding.

Crown at 1 o’clock (right side) is for setting the time.

“Once perfected aesthetically, the design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti case is all about curves, combined together to create a machining nightmare. The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-facetted rear section – all treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement. This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.”

“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling. nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement,” shares Maximilian Büsser. Images: Serpenti coming to life.

“The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3d mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters.”

Movement

Image: Manual winding movement crafted in-house by MB&F.

Powered by an MB&F in-house manual winding movement. It drives the hours (left dome), minutes (right dome), and power reserve indicator (back of the movement).

Movement features a “bespoke flying 14 mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the domed dials.” 

Parts:  310. Jewels: 32. Frequency: 18,000 vph or 2.5 Hz. Power reserve: 45 hours.

“Inside the complex case, an equally complex movement that breaks all traditional watchmaking conventions, conceived, and developed in-house by MB&F. From the beginning, one of Fabrizio’s central ideas was to bring Serpenti to (mechanical) life by animating its eyes; this has been materialised as revolving hour and minute domes, the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to make them as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with hand-applied Super-LumiNova, so that when darkness falls, the luminous gaze of the snake’s eyes persists.”

“The mechanical reptile’s brain is symbolised by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz (18,000bph). It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.”

“Flipping the Machine over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the hand-finished movement. MB&F is one of the few remaining brands to uphold artisanal manufacturing processes and to finish components by hand; an approach only possible when crafting a very limited number of watches per year (just under 400 in 2024). The watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month; the 99 pieces will require over a year to deliver.”

“Watchmaking experts who have been following MB&F will recognise some of the unconventional features of the movement. These are the result of expertise patiently developed across the more than 20 calibres created by MB&F since 2005 – in particular the manual-winding HM10 movement, although significant modifications were required to serve the sleek new Serpenti design.”

Our Thoughts

Image: An icon reimagined.

Just when I thought I had seen it all, the Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti is unveiled to the world. Reinterpreting an icon is never easy and must be handled with utmost care. In this case, the icon is the Serpenti, part of Bvlgari’s world since 1948, and not something you want to mess with. Both Fabrizio and Max have done a phenomenal job of reimagining the Serpenti in MB&F’s design language.

Image: Part serpent. Part supercar. Part spaceship.

In addition to its snake and automotive vibes, it is also part spaceship, at least to my eyes. The Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti speaks to the kid in me, one that was (and still is) crazy about automobiles, aircraft, and spaceships since early childhood. Maybe this is what both Fabrizio and Max (subconsciously) intended.

MB&F would not be MB&F without the “F” or Friends. Every individual or company – be it an artist, watchmaker, designer, and manufacturer in the horological ecosystem (for example case, hands, components, straps) – who work on an MB&F creation is given credit for that creation. Fabrizio and Bvlgari are the most significant Friends for this creation. LVMH owned Bvlgari, founded in 1884, is among the largest and most prestigious luxury brands in the world. Hats off to them for collaborating with MB&F, an independent watch brand (now part owned by Chanel), and celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Most large luxury watch brands (whether owned independently or by a conglomerate) would never entertain the idea of such a collaboration. This reflects Bvlgari’s progressive mindset – on one hand staying true to its heritage and traditions, on the other, using its heritage and creativity to give birth to the sensational Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti.

Image: Not your typical watch, but then MB&F is not your typical watch brand. Hats off to Bvlgari for collaborating with MB&F on the Serpenti.

The 99 fortunate owners (I will not be surprised if each is already spoken for) will become custodians of a horological object, whose design will stand the test of time. The Bvlgari X Serpenti is as much a work of mechanical art as it is a “watch.” Let us celebrate the Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti, as the world of design and horology is all the better for it.

Additional Details

Name: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti – Titanium edition

Reference: 104047

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 132,000 (Excluding taxes)

Limited edition of 33 pieces.

Name: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti – 18K Rose Gold edition

Reference: 104139

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 152,000 (Excluding taxes)

Limited edition of 33 pieces.

Name: Bvlgari X MB&F Serpenti – Black PVD-coated Stainless Steel edition

Reference: 104139

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF): 132,000 (Excluding taxes)

Limited edition of 33 pieces.

Please visit the MB&F website and Instagram page and the Bvlgari Instgram page for more information.

Bvlgari has boutiques at The Dubai Mall, Bvlgari Resorts and Residences Jumeirah Bay, Mall of the Emirates, and other locations. All details on the brand’s website.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons retails MB&F in Dubai. Please visit their website for more information.

Recently we covered the MB&F’s LM Perpetual Longhorn and LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn limited edition watches. Read here.