Rolex celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Oyster in 2026, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. The brand’s new models unveiled during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 include four Oyster Perpetual references. We take a close look at them.
“In 1926, the creation by Rolex of the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch marked a major step forward. Given the name “Oyster”, this watch featured a hermetically sealed case which provided optimal protection for the movement.”
Oyster Perpetual 41
The Oyster Perpetual 41 features subtle details to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Oyster. These include the “100” on the crown, “100 Years” in place of “Swiss Made” at 6 o’clock and “Rolex” and square-shaped hour-markers pad-printed in the “brand’s emblematic shade of green.”
It features a slate dial with a gloss and sunray finish. Hands and hour-markers are made from 18K yellow gold, coated with Chromalight (long lasting luminescence, blue-glow), except for the seconds hand. Its Oyster monobloc case measures 41 mm (diameter) * 11.60 mm (thickness). Lug width: 21 mm. Middle case is made from Oystersteel, satin-finished with polished sides. Domed bezel is made from yellow gold, polished finish. Solid caseback is made from Oystersteel, screwed to the middle case and features fine fluting. Twinlock crown at 3 o’clock is made from 18K yellow gold. A screw-down crown, it features a double waterproofness system. Dial side features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistant up to 100 metres or 330 feet.
The watch comes with an Oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links. Made from Oystersteel, it is satin finished with polished edges. The bracelet is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp, made from Oystersteel, featuring an Easylink comfort extension link (approximately 5 mm).
It is powered by Calibre 3230, a Manufacture Rolex automatic movement (bi-directional self-winding via a Perpetual rotor) that drives the hours, minutes, and seconds with a stop seconds function. It comprises 31 jewels, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Movement features include the brand’s innovations such as the Paramagnetic blue Parachrom Hairspring, Rolex overcoil variable inertia large balance wheel, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers and Chronergy escapement among others. Accuracy: -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
Name: Oyster Perpetual 41. Case reference: 134303.Bracelet reference: 72JB20 Oyster. Certification: COSC certification + Rolex certification after casing. Guarantee: International five-year. Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 8,300 (Including VAT).
Oyster Perpetual 36
The Oyster Perpetual 36 with its multicloured lacquered dial was among the highlights of the entire show. It is “decorated with the Jubilee motif, in which the letters of the name ‘Rolex’ form a joyful and sophisticated composition.” Each of the ten colours is individually applied by pad printing, “a lengthy and complex process requiring the utmost precision.”
It features a multicolured lacquered dial with the brand’s Jubilee pattern. Hands and hour-markers are made from 18K white gold, coated with Chromalight (long lasting luminescence, blue-glow), except for the seconds hand. Its Oyster monobloc case measures 36 mm (diameter) * 11.60 mm (thickness). Lug width: 20 mm. Middle case is made from Oystersteel, satin-finished with polished sides. Domed bezel is made from Oystersteel, polished finish. Solid caseback is made from Oystersteel. It is screwed to the middle case and features fine fluting. Twinlock crown at 3 o’clock is made from Oystersteel. A screw-down crown, it features a double waterproofness system. Dial side features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistant up to 100 metres or 330 feet.
The watch comes with an Oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links. Made from Oystersteel, it is satin finished with polished edges. The bracelet is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp, made from Oystersteel, featuring an Easylink comfort extension link (approximately 5 mm).
It is powered by Calibre 3230, a Manufacture Rolex automatic movement (bi-directional self-winding via a Perpetual rotor) that drives the hours, minutes, and seconds with a stop seconds function. It comprises 31 jewels, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Movement features include the brand’s innovations such as the Paramagnetic blue Parachrom Hairspring, Rolex overcoil variable inertia large balance wheel, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers and Chronergy escapement among others. Accuracy: -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
Name: Oyster Perpetual 36. Case reference: 126000. Bracelet reference: 72HB00 Oyster. Certification: COSC certification + Rolex certification after casing. Guarantee: International five-year. Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 6,000 (Including VAT).
This dial version is also available in a 41 mm Oystersteel case. Please click here to learn more.
Oyster Perpetual 28 & 34
The Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34 showcase Rolex’s mastery of 18K gold craftsmanship. The Oyster Perpetual 28 is crafted from 18K yellow gold and features a green stone lacquer dial. The Oyster Perpetual 34 is crafted from 18K Everose gold and features a blue stone lacquer dial.
Oyster Perpetual 28
It features a green stone lacquer dial. Hands and hour-markers are made from 18K yellow gold, coated with Chromalight (long lasting luminescence, blue-glow), except for the seconds hand and the hour-markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock which feature heliotrope, a natural stone. Its Oyster monobloc case measures 28 mm (diameter) * 10.50 mm (thickness). Lug width: 14 mm. Middle case is made from 18K yellow gold, satin-finished with polished sides. Domed bezel is made from 18K yellow gold, polished finish. Solid caseback is made from 18K yellow gold. It is screwed to the middle case and features fine fluting. Twinlock crown at 3 o’clock is made from 18K yellow gold. A screw-down crown, it features a double waterproofness system. Dial side features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistant up to 100 metres or 330 feet.
The watch comes with an Oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links. Made from 18K yellow gold, it is satin finished with polished edges. The bracelet is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp, made from 18K yellow gold, featuring an Easylink comfort extension link (approximately 5 mm).
It is powered by Calibre 2232, a Manufacture Rolex automatic movement (bi-directional self-winding via a Perpetual rotor) that drives the hours, minutes, and seconds with a stop seconds function. It comprises 31 jewels, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Movement features include the brand’s innovations such as the Syloxi hairspring in silicon, variable inertia balance wheel, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers among others. Accuracy: -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
Name: Oyster Perpetual 28. Case reference: 276208. Bracelet reference: 72BB08 Oyster. Certification: COSC certification + Rolex certification after casing. Guarantee: International five-year. Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 26,800 (Including VAT).
There are three other dial and case versions of this model (two feature diamonds on the bezel). Please visit the Rolex website to configure and learn more.
Oyster Perpetual 34
It features a blue stone lacquer dial. Hands and hour-markers are made from 18K pink gold, coated with Chromalight (long lasting luminescence, blue-glow), except for the seconds hand and the hour-markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock which feature dumortierite, a natural stone. Its Oyster monobloc case measures 34 mm (diameter) * 10.60 mm (thickness). Lug width: 18 mm. Middle case is made from 18K Everose gold, satin-finished with polished sides. Domed bezel is made from 18K Everose gold, polished finish. Solid caseback is made from 18K Everose gold. It is screwed to the middle case and features fine fluting. Twinlock crown at 3 o’clock is made from 18K Everose gold. A screw-down crown, it features a double waterproofness system. Dial side features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistant up to 100 metres or 330 feet.
The watch comes with an Oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links. Made from 18K Everose gold, it is satin finished with polished edges. The bracelet is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp, made from 18K Everose gold, featuring an Easylink comfort extension link (approximately 5 mm).
It is powered by Calibre 2232, a Manufacture Rolex automatic movement (bi-directional self-winding via a Perpetual rotor) that drives the hours, minutes, and seconds with a stop seconds function. It comprises 31 jewels, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. Movement features include the brand’s innovations such as the Syloxi hairspring in silicon, variable inertia balance wheel, high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers among others. Accuracy: -2/+2 seconds per day after casing.
Name: Oyster Perpetual 34. Case reference: 124205. Bracelet reference: 72FB05 Oyster. Certification: COSC certification + Rolex certification after casing. Guarantee: International five-year. Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 33,900 (Including VAT).
There are three other dial and case versions of this model (two feature diamonds on the bezel). Please visit the Rolex website to configure and learn more.
Our Thoughts
I was fortunate to handle all the new Oyster Perpetual references during Watches and Wonders Geneva. Each has a distinct personality of its own yet every bit a Rolex, with a design and quality identity that is universally regarded as second to none. My personal favorites were the Oyster Perpetual 41 and Oyster Perpetual 36 with its multicoloured lacquered dial. I typically prefer understated designs, but the latter’s vibrant colours and playful look won me over in a way I never expected.
The COSC has three new criteria which we will explain in Part-2.
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