Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary celebrations by adding two gorgeous dials to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The new models include a pink gold version with a matching golden-toned dial and a white gold version with a burgundy lacquer dial. They join the lineup of this reference which includes two pink gold versions – in a silver-toned lacquer dial and blue lacquer dial – and a white gold version with a blue lacquer dial.
Left: Pink gold with silver-toned lacquer dial. Middle: Pink gold with blue lacquer dial. Right: White gold with blue lacquer dial.
Key Features
Functions and Operations
Image: Notice how thin the case is. The perpetual calendar does not require a correction until 2100.
Hours and minutes.
Perpetual calendar: Date displayed on subdial at 3 o’clock. Day of the week displayed on subdial at 9 o’clock. Months and leap year displayed on subdial at 12 o’clock. Moon phase displayed at 6 o’clock.
Crown at 3 o’clock for winding and time-setting. Day of the week corrector near 8 o’clock. Date, day, and month corrector near 10 o’clock. Month and leap year corrector near 1 o’clock. Moon phase corrector near 4 o’clock.
Dial
Image: The flange with minutes scale is velvet-finished on both. I love the contrast of blue on both dials – albeit a tad more pronounced on the pink gold version. Notice the starry sky with gold moon on both. The Maltese cross – the brand’s emblem – is applied at 6 o’clock just between the moon phase display and the brand’s name. I like how the months for 4 years (48 in total) – including those for the leap year (in blue) – are incorporated on the subdial. VC perpetual calendars typically have an aperture indicating the leap year.
Pink gold version
Golden-toned translucent lacquered dial with a sunburst satin-finished base. Subdials for date, day of the week, and months and leap year have a snailed finish. Moon phase disc and moon are made from 18K 5N pink gold. Hour and minute hands and applied hour-markers are made from 18K 5N pink gold and coated with blue Super-LumiNova.
White gold version
Burgundy-lacquered dial with a sunburst satin-finished base. Subdials for date, day of the week, and months and leap year have a snailed finish. Moon phase disc and moon are made from 18K white gold. Hour and minute hands and applied hour-markers are made from 18K white gold and coated with blue Super-LumiNova.
Movement
Image: The automatic winding rotor is made from 22K gold. The compass rose “symbolises the Overseas spirit of travel and exploration.”
Powered by calibre 1120 QP/1, an automatic movement that drives the hours, minutes, perpetual calendar functions, and moon phase display.
Image: The roots of calibre 1120 goes back to the 1960’s. It was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. Movement finishing is exemplary, and includes “Côtes de Genève, straight-graining, chamfering and circular-graining.” I think the movement features a free-sprung balance wheel.
Diameter: 29.6 mm or 12 ½ lignes. Thickness: 4.05 mm. Parts: 276. Jewels: 36. Frequency: 19,800 vph or 2.75 Hz. Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours.
Case
Image: Notice the half Maltese cross-shaped links – polished and satin-brushed, and the Maltese cross embossed on the crown. The bracelet’s triple-blade folding clap features push-pieces and a comfort-adjustment system.
Made from 18K 5N pink gold (pink gold version) and 18K white gold version (white gold version). Diameter: 41.5 mm. Thickness: 8.1 mm. Dial side and caseback feature a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 5 bar or approximately 50 metres.
Bracelet and Straps
Image: VC pioneered the interchangeable strap change system when it introduced the third-generation Overseas collection in 2016. The additional rubber straps add versatility to both these gorgeous models.
Pink gold version
Bracelet is made from 18K 5N pink gold and is fitted to a triple-blade folding clap made from 18K 5N pink gold. A dark blue rubber and a white rubber strap are provided. An 18K 5N pink gold buckle is provided, compatible and interchangeable between both straps.
White gold version
Bracelet is made from 18K white gold and is fitted to a triple-blade folding clap made from 18K white gold. A burgundy rubber and a white rubber strap are provided. An 18K white gold buckle is provided, compatible and interchangeable between both straps.
Our Thoughts
Image: Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton in white gold.
Both the golden and burgundy dial versions are welcome and much needed additions to the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin lineup – which in my opinion had gotten overshaded by its skeleton dial sibling. The Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton in white gold with blue accents is among the most gorgeous watches to come out of VC’s oven in recent years – at least to my eyes. The new golden and burgundy dial versions bring back sexy to the non-skeleton model’s lineup.
Image: My personal favourite. Expect a que outside VC boutiques for this one. A timeless beauty and an heirloom piece.
CHF 119K gets you a gorgeous “luxury sports” watch (though I would not recommend playing football or swimming with it) from a Holy Trinity brand that oozes prestige second to none, and powered by one of the most legendary movements crafted by the Swiss watch industry.
At this level of horology, collectors will also gravitate to the various Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar references. These include models with their outgoing perpetual calendar movement and models with their new generation perpetual calendar movement. Down the road from VC, Patek Philippe offers the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar.
Please click here, here, here, and here to read our recent coverage on exceptional launches by VC.
Additional Details
Name: Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Reference: 4300V/220R-H144 – pink gold version with golden-toned dial
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 119,000 (tax included)
Reference: 4300V/220G-H151 – white gold version with burgundy lacquer dial
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 119,000 (tax included)
Both references are hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal.
Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.
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