Vacheron Constantin (VC) has introduced the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, a new interpretation of this classic grand complication featuring a compact case size of 36.5 mm. It is available in three versions: pink gold, white gold, and white gold set with diamonds on its bezel, lugs, and crown. They join the lineup of the model which includes versions in pink gold and white gold, both with a mother-of-pearl dial and set with diamonds.
VC celebrates its 270th anniversary this year. Founded in 1755, it is the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in the world.
Key Features
Functions and Operations
Hours and minutes. Perpetual calendar functions of the day of the week, date, month, and leap year. Moon phase display.
Winding and time setting via the crown at 3 o’clock. Day of the week corrector at 8 o’clock. Date, day of the week, and month corrector at 10 o’clock. Month and leap year corrector at 2 o’clock. Moon phase corrector at 4 o’clock.
Dial
Pink and White gold version
Silver-toned opaline dial. Hands and applied baton shaped hour-markers made from 18K 5N pink gold. Railway minute-track.
White gold version set with diamonds
Silver-toned opaline dial. Hands and applied baton shaped hour-markers made from 18K white gold. Railway minute-track.
Movement
Powered by 1120 QP, an ultra-thin automatic movement that drives the hours, minutes, perpetual calendar functions, and moon phase display. Diameter: 29.6 mm or 12 ½ lignes. Thickness: 4.05 mm. Parts: 276. Jewels: 36. Frequency: 19,800 vph or 2.75 Hz. Power reserve: 40 hours (approximately). The roots of calibre 1120 goes back to the 1960’s. It was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, and the only movement ever to be used by all three.
Case
Pink and White gold version
Made from 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold respectively. Diameter: 36.5 mm. Thickness: 8.43 mm. Dial side and caseback feature a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 3 bar or approximately 30 metres. The pink gold version comes with a light brown alligator leather strap, and the white gold version comes with a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap. Both straps feature tone-on-tone stitching and are fitted to an 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold pin buckle, respectively.
White gold version set with diamonds
Made from 18K white gold. Bezel and lugs are set with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.96 carats, approximately). Crown is set with 1 round-cut diamond (0.14 carats, approximately). Diameter: 36.5 mm. Thickness: 8.43 mm. Dial side and caseback feature a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 3 bar or approximately 30 metres. It comes with a dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and fitted to an 18K white gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds (0.09 carats, approximately).
Our Thoughts
Vacheron Constantin has had quite a year. In honour of its 270th birthday, they have launched one horological blockbuster after another. These include the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Overseas Grand Complication Openface, Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial (a series of 12 watches), Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time, and the once-in-a-lifetime La Quête du Temps Mechanique D’Art clock, among a few other launches. For most watch brands, the ability to craft any one of these creations would be a dream come true. VC has aptly showcased what it means to be part of the Holy Trinity (the other two being Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe).
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is among the “simpler watches” launched (relatively speaking, as it is still a grand complication) to celebrate VC’s 270th anniversary, and the last one as the year is almost over. It is not new in a horological sense – as VC has offered perpetual calendars with the same movement since quite some time. Their present catalogue includes the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (36.5 mm ladies diamond set version with mother-of-pearl dial), Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (41 mm), and Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin (41.5 mm, both the closed and openworked dial versions) – all powered by the same movement.
Yet, the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is new in a design and execution sense. It makes me wonder why they did not think of this a few years earlier. With many collectors showing a preference towards compact dimensions (even A. Lange & Söhne introduced their 1815 three-hand reference in a new 34 mm case during Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025), VC was wise to unveil this model.
While I have all the admiration, love, and awe for VC’s ultra-grand complications unveiled this year (and years prior), these creations tend to disappear in private collections, remain alive in coffee table books (of which I own a few), and appear at auctions every few decades. References like the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin are foundational pieces in VC’s catalogue – the ones you can actually see and handle in their boutiques. They make collectors, both old timers and those from a new generation, get enticed and fall in love with the brand. This is why the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is such an important watch for VC.
Additional Details
Name: Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Reference: 4300T/000R – H107 (Pink gold version)
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 86,500 (includes taxes)
Reference: 4300T/000G – H106 (White gold version)
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 86,500 (includes taxes)
Reference: 4305T/000G – H135 (Diamond set version)
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 90,500 (includes taxes)
All three references are hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Seal. Watches produced in 2025 will feature the 270th emblem.
Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram for more information on the three references.
