Opinion

Hublot’s Big Bang: New takes on the 21st-century horological icon

Part 3: We look at the four versions of the Big Bang Original Unico and the Big Bang Unico SR_A, the latter a collaboration between Hublot and British designer, Samuel Ross.

Icons are important for a watch brand. They create a three-fold identity: storytelling, visual and aspirational. Over time they transcend the brands themselves, helping to define the industry to an extent or at least a specific segment within it. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak set the benchmark for a versatile sports watch with an integrated bracelet. A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 not only became the public face of its maker, but also of the rebirth of German watchmaking. Cartier’s Tank, a masterclass in understated elegance and rectangular watch design, has been a quintessential dress watch since decades.

Hublot unveiled the Big Bang in 2005. Renowned for its expertise in material innovation, having made gold and rubber collide” in 1980, the Big Bang “reignited that revolution: turning material fusion into modern alchemy. What began as a fusion in 1980 became a formula.” Having celebrated its 20th anniversary last year, the Big Bang has earned its place as a 21st century horological icon.

We take a close look at the Big Bang Original Unico, a series of 4 models that is a homage to the original. And then we look at the Big Bang Unico SR_A, a collaboration with British designer Samuel Ross.

Big Bang Original Unico

The four models of the Big Bang Original Unico series highlight Hublot’s material innovation and expertise over the past 20 years. The three materials used – Ceramic, King Gold, and Titanium – form the backbone of Hublot’s Art of Fusion.”

“Every detail of the Big Bang Original Unico has been rethought, refined, re-engineered, while preserving what makes it truly original: the authentic DNA of the first Big Bang but making it more Hublot than ever, with our in-house Unico movement. The Big Bang Original Unico is the best version of the Big Bang Original, now more sculptural, more integrated. It could not exist without the Big Bang of 2005, without the fusion of materials that has shaped Hublot’s story since the very beginning in 1980. It celebrates every hand and every mind that has built this brand: its artisans, its innovators, its visionaries.” Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot.

Big Bang Original Unico Black Magic

Hublot Big Bang Original  Unico Black Magic.
Image: Introduced in 2006, the Black Magic celebrates 20 years. It “embodies Hublot’s radical spirit made tangible: a deep, technical, ultra-resistant ceramic that broke conventions 20 years ago; today it defines the Big Bang Unico Original.” Notice the structured pattern on the bezel’s side and on the chronograph pushers.  

Features a stamped and satin-finished “Carbon Effect” dial housed in a microblasted and polished black ceramic case and bezel, with the latter featuring a structured pattern on the side.

Big Bang Original Unico Titanium

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium.
Image: Hublot is a pioneer in the use of titanium, a material that is “almost two times lighter than steel, it delivers aerospace grade strength with featherweight comfort.” The skeletonised hour and minute hands, small seconds hand (9 o’clock), 60-minute counter hand, and hour-markers (both baton-shaped and Arabic numerals) are coated with luminescent material. 

Features a stamped and satin-finished “Carbon Effect” dial housed in a polished and satin-finished titanium case and bezel, with the latter featuring a structured pattern on the side.

Big Bang Original Unico Titanium Ceramic

Hublot Big Bang Original Unico Titanium Ceramic.
Image: For Hublot, ceramic is “a vivid reminder of how far Hublot has pushed material innovation. Years of R&D, patents and full in-house production transforming high-tech powders into bold, durable color. The world’s first full-color high-tech
ceramic palette (red, yellow and tones once thought impossible) densified under extreme pressure, sintered
at 1000°C, 300 Vickers harder than traditional ceramic, amagnetic and corrosion-proof.”

Features a stamped and satin-finished “Carbon Effect” dial housed in a polished and satin-finished titanium case and a polished and satin-finished black ceramic bezel, with the latter featuring a structured pattern on the side.

Big Bang Original Unico King Gold Ceramic

Hublot Big Bang Original Unico King Gold Ceramic.
Image: King Gold is a proprietary Hublot alloy, “strengthened with platinum and high-tech additives for enhanced hardness and a signature warmer, redder, more intense tone.”

Features a stamped and satin-finished “Carbon Effect” dial housed in a polished and satin-finished 18K King Gold case and a polished and satin-finished black ceramic bezel with the latter featuring a structured pattern on the side.

Movement features

Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold caseback side showcasing the Unico movement.
Image: Notice the “anthracite ruthenium plated microblasted and circular satin finished” skeletonised automatic winding rotor on the King Gold version. The rotor has the same finish on the other three versions. The movement carries five patented innovations for “dual oscillating clutches, an anti-trembling system, a “zero friction” ratchet wheel blocker, a fine balance wheel adjustment system and constant-pressure friction system for the minute counter all rigorously tested through Hublot’s Chronofiable® protocol to ensure optimal performance, reliability,
and precision.”

All four models are powered by MHUB1280, the brand’s Manufacture automatic movement that features a column wheel flyback chronograph. It drives the central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, central flyback seconds, 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock and date at (approximately) 4.30. It comprises of 354 parts and 43 jewels, beats at a modern rate of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of (approximately) 72 hours. It features a Swiss silicon lever escapement.

Case and strap features
 

Hublot Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold and Big Bang Unico Titanium.
Image: A closer look at the cases of the King Gold Ceramic (Left) and Titanium (Right). Notice the abundance of details such as the H-shaped titanium screws and mix of polished and satin-finished surfaces.

The case of all four models measures 43 mm (diameter) * 13.2 mm (thickness). Dial side and caseback feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistant up to 10 ATM or (approximately) 100 metres.

All four models come with a black structured rubber strap featuring the brand’s “One-Click” System enabling the wearer to change straps easily. The straps are fitted with a deployant buckle clasp, made from the specific model’s case and bezel material. Black Magic’s is made from black ceramic and black-plated titanium; Titanium’s is made from titanium; Titanium Ceramic’s is made from black ceramic and titanium; and King Gold Ceramic is made from 18K King Gold and black-plated titanium.

Big Bang Unico SR_A

Hublot Nig Bang Unico SR_A by Samuel Ross.
Image: One word to describe this collaboration is “Badass.” Notice the skeleton dial. The skeletonised hour and minute hands, small seconds hand (9 o’clock), and circular hour-markers are coated with luminescent material. I love the visible date wheel.

The Big Bang has been a phenomenal platform for creative interpretations and collaborations. Hublot’s partnership with British designer Samuel Ross MBE (Master of the British Empire) for the Big Bang Unico SR_A is one such example. It is the first SR_A model to feature the brand’s Unico movement.

“Limited to 200 pieces, the timepiece adopts a monochrome ceramic exterior and a newly developed honeycomb rubber strap, refining the design vocabulary established by the three previous SR_A tourbillon editions. Combining ceramic engineering, industrial geometry, and the performance of the Unico movement, the Big Bang Unico SR_A offers a more widely available expression of the collaboration while remaining firmly anchored in Hublot’s Art of Fusion and Ross’s distinct identity.”

Dial, Movement, Case and Strap features

Samuel Ross wearing the Big Bang Uncio SR_A.
Image: Samuel Ross wearing his namesake creation.

Features a matt black skeleton dial housed in a polished and satin-finished black ceramic case and bezel.

It is powered by the Unico MHUB1280, the brand’s Manufacture automatic movement that features a column wheel flyback chronograph. It drives the central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, central flyback seconds, 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock and date at 3 o’clock. It comprises of 354 parts and 43 jewels, beats at a modern rate of 4 Hz or 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of (approximately) 72 hours. It features a Swiss silicon lever escapement.

Hublot Big Bang Unico SR_A by Samuel Ross placed on its box.
Image: The Big Bang Unico SR_A on its modern box. Notice “SR_A” written on the left side vertically, and “Hublot” on the right side horizontally. “At the centre of the design is Samuel Ross’s signature honeycomb motif. Seen previously in the SR_A sculptures and earlier watch limited editions, the pattern appears here on a newly developed structured rubber strap created specifically for this reference. Lightweight, ergonomic and strongly architectural, it reinforces the industrial character of the SR_A series.”

Its case measures 42 mm (diameter) * 14.5 mm (thickness). Dial side and caseback feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistant up to 10 ATM or (approximately) 100 metres. It comes with a black structured honeycomb rubber strap fitted with a deployant folding clasp made from black ceramic and black-plated titanium.

In Part 2 of our Hublot Series, Hublot’s amazing world of colours and exceptional craftsmanship, we explored few other interpretations of the Big Bang.

Concluding Thoughts
 

Hublot is both impressive as a watch brand and as a watchmaker. Understanding the distinction between the two is important: the former is the appeal the brand has across a diverse demographic, which includes global partnerships across categories such as sports, art & music, lifestyle, and social responsibility. Over here, Hublot has few equals. The latter is the brand’s ability to craft watches that encompass a unique design identity across a variety of complications and materials. Hublot excels here too. Their watches have a bold personality and range from simple time-only pieces to the Unico chronograph to tourbillons and minute repeaters.

Despite the brand’s significant achievements, the Big Bang remains their signature design, their biggest contribution to horology. Any version of the Big Bang is a compelling addition to a watch collection.

Also Read: Hublot’s fascinating world of material innovation and complications

Additional Details

Name: Big Bang Original Unico Black Magic

Reference: 431.CI.1370.RX

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 18,900

Name: Big Bang Original Unico Titanium

Reference: 431.NX.1370.RX

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 16,900

Name: Big Bang Original Unico Titanium Ceramic

Reference: 431.NM.1370.RX

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 17,900

Name: Big Bang Original Unico King Gold Ceramic

Reference: 431.OM.1380.RX

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 25,900

Name: Big Bang Unico SR_A

Reference: 441.CX.1140.RX.SRA26

Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 25,900

Limited to 200 pieces.

Please visit hublot.com and their Instagram page for more information. The watches are available at Hublot Boutiques at Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates and Galleria Mall Abu Dhabi.