DANIEL ROTH introduced the Tourbillon Platinum during Dubai Watch Week 2025 which was held during 19th – 23rd November. Inspired by the Tourbillon reference 2187/C187 of 1988, the new model – under the brand’s LVMH ownership – “is a tribute to Daniel Roth’s (the man) favourite complication and dedication to the timeless ideals of haute horlogerie.”
Key Features
Functions and Operation
Hours and minutes indicated on the dial at 12 o’clock. One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Winding and time-setting via the crown at 3 o’clock.
Dial
Anthracite grey dial on a white gold base featuring a pinstripes guilloché pattern, hand applied “using a straight-line engine.” The time dial, the curved frame or the brand’s “iconic moustache” on the left and right which display “DANIEL ROTH” and “NUMERO XX” (individual watch’s number), and the frame for seconds are made from sterling silver 925. The hands are made of stainless-steel and are black-coated.
“All components of the dial have been produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which now has a fully-equipped guillochage workshop with antique engine-turning machines that have been entirely restored to perfect functionality. These time-honoured techniques put a natural limit on production. A single dial for the Tourbillon Platinum can take up to three days to complete, line by line by a single Maître Guillocheur, with the smallest mistake at any point along the way requiring the dial to be discarded.”
Movement
Powered by Calibre DR001, a manually wound movement that drives the hours, minutes, and one-minute tourbillon. It was “developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.” Dimensions: 31 * 28 mm. Thickness: 4.6 mm. Parts: 206. Jewels: 19. Frequency: 21,600 vph or 3 Hz. Power reserve: 80 hours (approximately).
“As long-time friends of Daniel, we knew his expectations for the DR001 would be high. Both Enrico and myself share his philosophy and passion for tradition and elegance and were able to leverage the unique savoir-faire of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to create a tourbillon worthy of the brand’s second act.” – Michel Navas.
“Daniel was an inspirational figure for Michel and myself, so it was important to both of us to respect the brand’s original emphasis on both architecture and finissage. Daniel was a true pioneer of independent watchmaking, so it wouldn’t be enough for us to simply recreate the past. Our vision for DANIEL ROTH is to remain true to the brand’s history while elevating the subtle details.” – Enrico Barbasini.
Case
Case is made from platinum. Dimensions: 38.6 * 35.5 mm. Thickness: 9.2 mm. Lug width: 20 mm. Dial side features a flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Caseback features a sapphire crystal. Water resistant up to 30 metres. Watch comes with a calfskin leather strap fitted to a tang-type buckle.
Our Thoughts
The Louis Vuitton booth at Dubai Watch Week 2025 – where both DANIEL ROTH and sister brand Gérald Genta were displayed – was among the busiest. I did get an excellent look at the Tourbillon Platinum and the Extra Plat Rose Gold; the latter a gorgeous two-hand watch that has been tugging on my horological heart strings since it was launched this year.
The Tourbillon looks gorgeous in its new platinum guise. It has a lot going for it: a direct link to Daniel Roth’s original Tourbillon reference 2187/C187 – a provenance second to none, and crafted using traditional haute horology codes yet every bit a “modern watch.” If you are in the market for a genuine high-end tourbillon, hurry and put your name on the list.
Additional Details
Name: Tourbillon Platinum
Reference: DAAG01A1
Price: Swiss Franc (CHF) 185,000 (excluding taxes)
Not specified if it is a limited edition. Expect limited quantities per year. Please visit the brand’s website and Instagram page for more information.
