Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has persisted with “improving the accuracy, regularity and reliability” of its watches. Horological breakthroughs such as its “balance-spring with flat terminal curve,” new generation balance wheels – such as its “titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration,” anti-shock solutions – such as its “triple para-chute shock-absorbing system,” and escapement optimisation – such as its “silicon escape wheel” – all laid the groundwork for modern chronometry.
“Watchmaking tradition is all about innovation. We are constantly rethinking the architecture of our calibres and the geometry of our components: by using state-of-the art materials and incorporating contemporary materials, we create modern movements suited to current lifestyles.” — Denis Flageollet, Co-Founder and Master Watchmaker, De Bethune.
Their vision is simple – “to sustainably improve mechanical watches’ accuracy and reliability in the face of brief, disordered wrist movements. This approach combines craftsmanship, materials research and technical innovation to offer timepieces whose chronometry (precision timekeeping) remains stable in real-world conditions.”
“De Bethune developed a hairspring featuring an outer curve designed to enable concentric development, improving the isochronism of the balance wheel and hairspring during wrist movements and in different positions. It has also been designed to better absorb shocks and significantly reduce the deformations observed on conventional hairsprings in the event of impacts.”
“Thanks to advances in materials and finishes, De Bethune designed its own balance wheel: a lightweight titanium core surrounded by peripheral weights in white gold concentrates the mass at the periphery to increase the moment of inertia while limiting the overall mass.”
“De Bethune is the first contemporary watch Manufacture to develop a three-point shock absorbing system designed to reduce external influences and protect the heart of the watch.”
“In perfecting its approach to chronometry, De Bethune redesigned the Swiss lever escapement. The escape wheel stands out for its innovative geometry and silicon construction, effectively halving the risk of wear on the lever pallets.”
“In 2012, as part of the Résonique project, De Bethune explored the spring functions of silicon to achieve high frequencies and avoid friction in the balance-wheel pivots. These avenues nonetheless remain challenging: the systems proposed to date do not offer free oscillations – as they are servo-controlled, hence not isochronous – and remain sensitive to temperature variations.”
“In 2022, De Bethune launched the “Sensorial Chronometry Project”, a watchmaking first offering truly customised chronometric adjustment. Intended for owners of a DB28GS Grand Bleu, the project involves the customer wearing a test watch equipped with sensors (movements, positions, shocks, ambient temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, etc.) for two weeks, generating significant data flows that are analysed by the Chronometry Workshop in L’Auberson.”
“Installed in an atmospheric simulation chamber, a robotic arm faithfully reproduces the wearer’s environment and movements in order to adjust the watch to the constraints of real life use: each custom-made timepiece is accompanied by a personalised report. This exclusive, gradually rolled-out service aims to go beyond the standard static tests performed by the entire watch industry (including those for the most prestigious certifications) and instead offer precision tailored to the owner’s lifestyle and daily activities.”
“This year, De Bethune is taking a new step forward by integrating the entire hairspring production in-house: from wire drawing and rolling to precision operations – cutting, heat treatment and colleting – through to its assembly with the Manufacture balance wheel and final adjustment of the watch.”
“Above and beyond autonomy, the stakes are also technical: externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre. By mastering each stage, De Bethune can now adjust variables down to micron levels – thickness, height, coiling start and collet radius – and adapt the geometry of the hairspring to its balance wheel as well as the specific positioning of each manufactured calibre.”
Our Thoughts
Founded in 2002, De Bethune is relatively young at 23 years. Yet it has achieved horological breakthroughs that most other brands – many founded decades or even a century or two ago – can only dream off. A watch collector friend of mine – who is extremely passionate about independent watchmaking and De Bethune in particular – mentioned to me that if Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) were around today, then the Manufacture is where he would be at tinkering away with horological magic and chronometry. He was one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, famous for inventing the tourbillon (among other horological inventions), and founder of Breguet.
De Bethune is technically extremely impressive. Their innovations and patents find their way into their watches; identifiable by a unique and (often) gorgeous aesthetic. I have been fortunate to handle their watches in Geneva during April, and recently in Dubai during Dubai Watch Week 2025. They unveiled two new watches in Dubai; the DB Kind of Two Jumping GMT (pictured above) and DB25 Perpetual Sky. The latter made it to my list of top 5 watches of the show.
We look forward to sensational watches from the Manufacture in the future.
